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Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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Kermit's Direct Start 
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Lend Me a Dime 
Lime Line Variation 
MA 1 
Meat Puppets 
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Revenge of the Nerds 
Smitty's Wet Dream 
Stitches 
Subordinate Claws 
Touch Up 

MA 1 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1978, Rick Bradshaw/Dave Jenkins
Page Views: 1,327
Submitted By: Vince Romney on May 18, 2003
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On the opening moves of MA 1 - photo by Garret Nuz...

Description 

From the top of The Green Adjective, head up grooves and flakes to the large roof. An easy undercling traverse left (always wet early in the year) places you at a steep dihedral with a tips to fingers crack.

This is a good place to set a couple bomber pieces if you chose not to protect the traverse due to impending rope drag. Exciting lieback moves place you at a stance with small edges, and then continue up and right to a platform.

From here, angle up and right, through an off-balance move to a ramp, which ultimately achieves the first belay.

The second pitch moves left along the base of the huge shield until it reaches a wide crack on the left of the shield. Ascend this crack, with the occasional off-width move to the top and belay on the large shelf.


Protection 

Cams to 3" and a set of stoppers. Rope drag can be a big problem if you choose to protect the 5.5 undercling traverse from the top of the Green "A".


Descent 

Scramble about 150' down to the anchors at the top of Touch Up.



Comments on MA 1 Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Feb 11, 2007

Nice boulder problem for that grade but the .9 part just above it is more fun and memorable. loads of gear to protect the crux.

By KPRTX
Dec 4, 2008

I recommend the direct slab traverse from the top of green A direct to the dihedral, no rope drag, big runout. Probably only 5.7 climbing to the first piece.

By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Feb 28, 2009

It is probably worth mentioning, you can set up a really solid gear belay at the bottom of this climb IE directly in the corner before the traverse to the top of pitch 1 of green adjective. There are ample opportunities to set gear and establish a well equalized three to four piece anchor. This helps to alleviate the rope drag issues that have been mentioned in the above comments.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jan 20, 2012

Did this the other day and the traverse is way easy. Just run it out from the chains of the green A to the corner. Really fun climb with a really awkward move above the lie back.