M6 Corner  WI4+ M6

383 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  WI4+ M6 [details] FA:  ?? Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Noah8000 on Mar 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Danny Murphy following P2.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This great corner is better then it looks. Erik Wellborn and I had eyed it out before hand. As luck would have it, there is a bolt after 15 feet, along with tat on the trees, so it's been climbed.

P1. Climb the corner until a bolt is reached. and then dry tool up the slightly overhanging corner with not too bad of gear. Belay at tree (I thought the crux was almost the first half of the corner), M6ish. This is in your face and the real deal.

P2. Traverse right around the corner to hopefully some kind of ice. When we did it, it was kind of sun baked. Some mixed climbing with good cams were used to get to the thicker ice. It is a pretty short pitch. Belay at the tree.

The route is pretty awesome. It has an alpine feel to it as the climbing is pretty scrappy. It's all there. Go try it and let me know your thoughts!

Location 

About a hundred feet left of Slip Sliding Away brings one to a corner with a lone bolt almost not to far up. P2 can be seen above that with ice. One 60 rap brings one to the ground.

Protection 

Knifeblade, maybe a LA. Bring extra small gear including 0.4s. A #3 came in handy.

Photos of M6 Corner Slideshow

Add Photo

Erik Wellborn following P1.	Danny on P2.	Kes experiencing "alpine conditions" at Camp Bird ...
The route follows the corner. P2 is kind of seen a...