||TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: ||M7-8 [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Dahlberg|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter Mixed|
|Page Views: ||505|
|Submitted By: ||James Loveridge on Jan 30, 2008|
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15’ to the right of Martini. Start on slab underneath the rightward trending feature.
This excellent route is definitely a “must do” at the quarry! Start on slab under right angling overlap/bulge. Climb up and into small shallow dihedral then up the face on good flakes trending left a little. Follow blocky feature back right and maneuver around or over big block/corner to gain rest stance. Follow blocky cracks to overhang below the final headwall (or dagger if there is ice). If the ice is down low, climb it to the anchors (might want to bring a screw). If there’s no ice or it’s thin, move out right and then straight up the right side of the headwall (there is a last bolt on the headwall that may or may not be clipable). Clip in steel chain anchor just above the ice
10 bolts + anchor. Depending on how much ice is up top, I’d recommend bringing a screw to protect the upper section.