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East Fork Valley
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M Buttress 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 21 July 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,684
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 29, 2006

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This is the wondeful left facing dihedral low on t...

Description 

Ambush is huge and vast. The route we called Triple Shot as we passed three distinct "summits"...one of which we needed to rappel down to continue. The M Buttress is its own mountain, really. Basically, this is just to the north of the the North Summit of Ambush. A huge dike forms the letter M at the lower part of the wall/arete. The route starts at the far left lower side of the letter M and follows the beautiful left facing dihedral and then on to the arete to the top of the first tower. It forms a huge ridge with the passing of three gendarmes to the top of the mountain. I believe we reached a summit higher than the north and south summits of Ambush. We were looking down to them?! Some really classic and excellent moderate pitches await the adventure climber on this one!

Location 

Start at the lower left side of the M formed by a dike

Protection 

Clean rack up to 3.5 Camalots


Photos of M Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Full View of the entire M-buttress
BETA PHOTO: Full View of the entire M-buttress
Pitch #7 with arete climbing, hand and finger crac...
Pitch #7 with arete climbing, hand and finger crac...
The great dihedral low on the M Buttress viewed fr...
The great dihedral low on the M Buttress viewed fr...
The Unmistakable M at the bottom of the Buttress. ...
The Unmistakable M at the bottom of the Buttress. ...
Snow traverse at the top.
Snow traverse at the top.

Comments on M Buttress Add Comment
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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 17, 2006

Great to hear that something went in on this wall, I thought that the "M" was as notable a feature as the heart on El Cap.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 13, 2013

Did this in 2011, but we missed the nice dihedral low on the route as it was blocked by a ton of snow. We just climbed left of it for several pitches with a nice little 5.8 hand crack somewhere in the middle. This seemed like it would be easy to go around making it more like 5.6. The rest of the route was adventurous but never very hard with a rap off a tower in the middle. We did an interesting traverse behind the snow toward the top.