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Lyons

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Lyons  


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Location: 40.2229, -105.27 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
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Description 

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There 

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food 

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

Tubing/Waterfun 

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

468 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',112],['2 Stars',219],['1 Star',112],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',30],['5.7',38],['5.8',54],['5.9',87],['5.10',109],['5.11',51],['5.12',20],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',23],['V4-5',21],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lyons:
Get Over It   V10 7C+     Boulder   Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : The Double Trouble Boulder
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Hollow Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
KeeMoSabe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Crooked Cross   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel
Sunshine Dihedral   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Lost in Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Browse More Classics in Lyons

Featured Route For Lyons
Working the first section.

Rebel Forces V4 6B  CO : Lyons : ... : The Rebel Boulder
This is a classic boulder problem that comes out of the roof. Stand start matched on a good sloping ledge, and bust into a juggy incut on the roof. Work over the lip through some right hand slopers and left hand sidepulls to gain the topout (crux). It looks like a lower start may be possible, but it would be really, really hard....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Lyons Slideshow Add Photo
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Dierection.
Dierection.
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Matt following P2....
Matt following P2....
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...

Comments on Lyons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 26, 2013
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?
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