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Lyons

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Camp Dick 
Lion's Den, The 
Rabbit Mountain 
St. Vrain Canyons 
Steamboat Mountain 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lyons 


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Location: 40.2229, -105.27 View Map  Incorrect?
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Starting up Haradrim.

Description 

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.


Getting There 

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons


Food 

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....


Tubing/Waterfun 

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.


437 Total Routes


['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',106],['2 Stars',196],['1 Star',111],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',30],['5.7',35],['5.8',48],['5.9',84],['5.10',102],['5.11',46],['5.12',20],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',15],['V2-3',20],['V4-5',18],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lyons:
Get Over It   V10 7C+     Boulder   Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : The Double Trouble Boulder
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
KeeMoSabe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Crooked Cross   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Lost in Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Life After James   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Buttonrock : Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Buttonrock : River Wall II
Browse More Classics in Lyons

Featured Route For Lyons
Approaching the optional belay. Vrainavore 10a is the crack on the left.

Handcrack-a-rete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Lyons : ... : The Coliseum
Toward the middle of the wall lie two long aretes that make their way to the top of The Coliseum. Handcrack-a-rete is the obvious hand crack that splits the arete on the right hand side. Start by scrambling to the base of the crack then proceed through the excellent hand crack to a set of bolt anchors approximately 100' up on a great ledge. The crux lies near the beginning of this pitch; here, the crack itself is angled inward (making the jams somewhat awkward) and the feet are thin...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Lyons
Local Shops
A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

[ Read All News ]
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Photos of Lyons Slideshow Add Photo
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the California section" of the North Fork.
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the California ...
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Dierection.
Dierection.
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading Butter Cup....
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Matt following P2....
Matt following P2....
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchline' (10a) in the SSV. Photo by Tony B, 6/08.
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at Oskar Blues. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Comments on Lyons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008

Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.

By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 26, 2013

Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?