Lycra 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Colin Berry & friend, March 1982 |
| Submitted By: | Theron Moses on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Description Friction your way up to the first bolt. Stay left of the bolt and go up. It's pretty thin for a couple of moves above the first bolt. Shallow monos & pasty feet. Move up into the hole and go straight up from there. It will hit you with a second cruxy section around the third bolt.
Protection Three bolts and a large cam for the hole inbetween the 1st and 2nd bolt. Use either of Shadows two bolt anchors. The Right side set is better aligned with the climb.
By vincent lopez
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| hard crux but well protected. (1st bolt) . the optional cam placement only protects around 5.6 /5.7 moves but you could deck if you blow it getting up to the 2nd bolt . after the 3rd bolt it is 5.9+ but nowhere near as hard as the start . halfway between the 3rd bolt and the chains there is a bolt just left of the route that can be clipped to minimize the runout to the chains . very nice route.... |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 12, 2005
| Vincent -- good lead! The way I like to do it is to traverse up and left after the third bolt, finishing as for Shadow. Done this way (and using the #3 Camalot between bolts 1 and 2), it's pretty well-protected (at least by Bishop Peak standards!). |
By Slater
Jul 19, 2009
| This route deserves more attention then it gets. One of the best. Much more sequential than most other routes. Reminds me of the bottom section of Lama. Excellent. |
By Jim Reynolds
Apr 11, 2011
| My favorite route on Shadow Wall. Superb friction climb. I was proud to onsight it |
By Ken Klis
Mar 8, 2012
| fa Ken Klis, Nate Sears
hand drilled on-sight old school by me, forgot my hammer used a rock
named in regards to the Lycra pants fashion of the day
this route joined I Love A Mystery (Mike Cirone 1977) for the top half, a route that used Shadow bolts but went right after a runout start |
By Josterling
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Did this route today. Thanks Ken for the good vision and bolting this. Amazing line.
p.s. this line felt more like 10b/c to me am i only one who feels this way?? |
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