Lycra Bikers From Hell  5.12a R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Mike Caldwell Submitted By:  Nate Christiansen on Jan 29, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is a the main face of Crescent Wall. As you approach the wall, you will see a ramp that goes up and left. Lycra is the right facing seam at the top of the ramp. It starts with a tough 5.11 traverse with some extremely marginal pins (hence the "s" rating) to a very thin crack (5.12) for RPs and small stoppers. Eventually the crack fades and you start clipping bolts. The face climbing is continuous. Use the anchors from Flight for Life to lower or an off-centered TR.

Protection 

Small stoppers and RPs. Some very small tcus could come in handy as well. Some slings for the traverse to prevent drag.