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Crescent Wall
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Lycra Bikers From Hell 
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Lycra Bikers From Hell 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Caldwell
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Nate Christiansen on Jan 29, 2003
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Description 

This route is a the main face of Crescent Wall. As you approach the wall, you will see a ramp that goes up and left. Lycra is the right facing seam at the top of the ramp. It starts with a tough 5.11 traverse with some extremely marginal pins (hence the "s" rating) to a very thin crack (5.12) for RPs and small stoppers. Eventually the crack fades and you start clipping bolts. The face climbing is continuous. Use the anchors from Flight for Life to lower or an off-centered TR.


Protection 

Small stoppers and RPs. Some very small tcus could come in handy as well. Some slings for the traverse to prevent drag.



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By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 1, 2003

Yanked out the funky looking 1st pin, in the lower traverse section with one hand while attempting this route in Nov. '02, still able to place a small RP and I think a purple TCU prior to the 2nd fixed pin and 1st bolt.

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Mar 8, 2012

www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=d34dmb-7ii4