Lycopodophyta climbs a right facing dihedral just right of Helium Woman. This climb is a pleasant way to top out at Smith, and a good lead for a new trad leader.
Climb the corner using perfect hand and fist jams, plus numerous features on the faces for feet and hands. There is one short section of finger crack 2/3 of the way up where the gear thins, but it is easily passed in one or two moves and you don't have to finger jam to climb past. At the top of the crack, step right and belay from the anchors above the first pitch of Bunny Face.
From the anchors on Bunny Face, you could rap to the ground. Or top out by stepping down and right (slightly spooky, place a piece before you reach the bolts) and following the bolts on Bunny Face to the top (5.6).
Another option (the original second pitch) would be to continue up the crack through a wide, grungy and flaring section to the top (5.8).
To descend we did two raps off Cinnamon Slab. There is likely a better way.
Gear to 2" for the first pitch.
The wife giving me a lesson in how it's done.
BETA PHOTO: Great crack, easy pro whenever you want to place i...
From: Portland, OR
Oct 12, 2009
Super fun climb. Didn't use any gear bigger than .75 and the placements sound a little hollow down low. There is an anchor (new?) immediately at the top of the climb on the left that keeps the anchor to the right free for other climbs.
|By Teh Phuzzy|
Jun 1, 2010
There is an anchor for this one one the left side of the Chimney and another at the center of the face af the chimney making the back face of the chimney a great TR face climb or even hit up Rabbit stew on the right side of the chimney. Three great climbs from one anchor.
From: Beaverton, Oregon
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No fist or hand jams on pitch 1. The finger locks were plenty good. Very fun climb. Small pro goes in whenever you want. P2 may take fists and hands but it doesn't look like p2 gets many ascents and guide only gives p2 1 star.