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Lycanthropia 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Martin Berzins
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Sep 24, 2009
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Jamie taking the 30' whip onto the blindly placed ...

Description 

This route is yet another one of Martin Berzins' bold and hard additions to the Daks. Put up in 1991, this route contains some of the raddest and most desperate moves I've experienced on any route and amazingly has remained un-repeated to the best of my knowledge. The proximity to Drop Fly or Die is completely overshadowed by the quality of the climbing.

Climb the start of Drop Fly Or Die and at the first roof continue straight up in a tight hands and ringlocks crack. At the horizontal, move left into Drop Fly for 4'. Reach out, blindly place a wire or micro cam in the seam and then move right on small desperate holds into a crazy boulder sequence with no feet until your established in a finger lock and can place your next piece. Continue up the sustained crack above to the enormous guillotine flake and then right to a 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

Start as for Drop Fly or Die.


Protection 

Many small cams and nuts plus some .75 camalot size pieces.



Photos of Lycanthropia Slideshow Add Photo
Jamie Hamilton moves into the crux on a close attempt!
Jamie Hamilton moves into the crux on a close atte...
Jamie trying to hold onto slopy "jug" mid crux.
Jamie trying to hold onto slopy "jug" mid crux.
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By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Sep 30, 2009

This rig is rad. Great crack climbing mixed with some difficult and elegant face climbing above some scary gear! The black alien skidded a good 1/4" when I whipped on it, any more and it would have blown. Berzins was ahead of his time. This thing needs more traffic!