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Routes in South Nuttall
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Beckoning, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bone Sugar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broken Vowels T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Converging Paths T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Desperately Seeking Susan T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Evil Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Finger Crack in White Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get Shorty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guillotine T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Heaven Cent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hyperactive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inchworm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Judgement Night S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killing Fields S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Luv Nuthing T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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M&M T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Munson Burner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Traditionalists, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stoatastic Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Temporary Insanity T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Timber T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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WW Bolted Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brian McCray |
| Page Views: | 1,873 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Jun 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Start on a short wide corner up to a spider-web filled alcove. This first section has some loose rock. From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter. Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner. Be aware that toproping this route can be a major cluster, due to its steep and right-leaning nature. This is arguably the best pure jamming route of any grade at the NRG.
Location
Pretty far down the line of the South Nuttall cliffline. Walk past the concentrated area of Temporary Insanity, Fingercrack in White Corner, etc., go under the Waterpipe Cave, and Luv Nothing will be at the top of a small little hill just right of a big corner system. About three minutes past this is a 5.2 climb-out; one of South Nuttall's rare access points.
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