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Metropolis
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Poking Lois 

Luthor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Sep 2, 2008
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Description 

Climb the crack by whatever technique you choose. If you jam, the crux comes just before the top, if you layback, I have no idea when it comes. If you're feeling strong, bring 6 more draws, clip the anchors for pro, and punch it to the second set of anchors for a 5.12 called "Lex Luthor".


Location 

The distinctive right facing dihedral at Metropolis with a handcrack in it.


Protection 

9(?) bolts. Or you could protect it with a double set of cams to #3 camalot. Yes its a bolted crack. Yes I'm ok with that.



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By Jim Hausmann
From: Richmond, TX
Jul 28, 2010

FA was Aaron Huey, about 1999.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Bolted cracks are fine on limestone sport meccas. It's all the rage with the kids these days.

Sent this lieback with plenty of face features. Partner put this one up trad style in the OW. We both felt it was a soft 9. Lotta fun either way!

By Mike Snyder
Administrator
Sep 3, 2012

Actually the extension is called Crux Luthor and the FA does go to AH, circa 1998.