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Routes in Black Beauty Wall
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Acrobat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Essence T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lichen Eliminator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lusty Vicar T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Spanish Inquisition T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Triple Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Velvet Gloves T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Aidan Maguire |
| Page Views: | 706 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Oct 2, 2004 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Lusty Vicar begins just around the corner from the main face of Black Beauty Wall. It starts with an EASY (~5.9) pull over an overhang then ascends a not-steep flared crack. As you go up, the crack gets thinner and the climbing steeper.
The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical. There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam. This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.
After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.
The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical. There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam. This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.
After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.
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