Lustography  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 30 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Nathan Smith, summer 98 Submitted By:  Boissal on Aug 28, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>> See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Sitting all by its lonesome self on a squat block is a short 2 bolts affair. While at first sight it seems like its name will be its only redeeming quality, Lustography climb really well for a highball boulder problem on bolts. And it was drilled by hand!

Start with a difficult throw to an edge or just be tall (don't dab on the left wall). Clip the first bolt and mantle a shelf, not necessarily in that order. Good holds and longish reaches lead to a second bolt then things ease up to the anchor.
Surprisingly fun!

Location 

You'll find this little guy about 15' right of Novacaine on a square detached block. Look for anchors you can practically jump to from the ground...

Protection 

2 bolts to metolius rap bolts.
Optional small gear (000 to 1 C3s) can protect the "runout" between the bolts.