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Scout Lake
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Climb-A-Tize T 
Blues Streak S 
Ed's Route T 
Gone With the Wind T 
Green Eggs and Ham T 
Guillotine S 
Hero Maker S 
Lustography S 
Novacaine T 
Shinangwav T,S 

Lustography 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nathan Smith, summer 98
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Boissal on Aug 28, 2011

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  • Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Sitting all by its lonesome self on a squat block is a short 2 bolts affair. While at first sight it seems like its name will be its only redeeming quality, Lustography climb really well for a highball boulder problem on bolts. And it was drilled by hand!

    Start with a difficult throw to an edge or just be tall (don't dab on the left wall). Clip the first bolt and mantle a shelf, not necessarily in that order. Good holds and longish reaches lead to a second bolt then things ease up to the anchor.
    Surprisingly fun!

    Location 

    You'll find this little guy about 15' right of Novacaine on a square detached block. Look for anchors you can practically jump to from the ground...

    Protection 

    2 bolts to metolius rap bolts.
    Optional small gear (000 to 1 C3s) can protect the "runout" between the bolts.


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