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 ADVANCED
Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
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Wheel of Fortune S 

Lust 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 7,003
Submitted By: TBD on Oct 18, 2003

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Description 

The third bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 15' right of the Devil at a face leading to an alcove.

Climb up the face to an alcove. Exit left and continue up a steep face. Work left and climb a slabby corner to the top.

An interesting variety of climbing. A long sustained line with several cruxes requiring very different techniques to succeed.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope required to rap or lower. There is a stray, hangerless bolt near the top.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 22, 2014
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

My favorite route at Avalon. Climb up into a little alcove, then make an exciting traverse left onto the face. Work up the steep face (10b/c) and climb a corner/slab (10a) to the anchors. The route is 90' long.

By TBD
Oct 27, 2003

Ron, I always find it interesting that people can have such different experiences on routes, really one of the values of this site. I certainly thought this route was harder than Marquis de Sade, you found the opposite to be true. Something came to mind after climbing in Eldo yesterday, this route would probably compare to 9+ there.

By Scott Hudson
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is also my favorite line at Avalon. Thanks to Ron for the beta that helped me find this one. Climbed this between rain squalls on 7/5/04. The climbing is interesting and varied. It seems possible that you could climb this with half the bolts or perhaps without any bolts at all given the abundant cracks on the route.

By Mark Ferguson
Aug 1, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good but not 10d.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with Chad here. Climbing at the top is similar to the pin-ladder on Eldo's Yellow Spur. After I got back to the car, I kept saying "There's no WAY that's .10d!" By no means am I a ".10d climber" and I only hesitated once or twice on this route. I'd call it a .10b I think. If you're not a .10d climber, I wouldn't be afraid of this route. Many many bolts and the cruxes aren't that hard. At the top, follow the bolt line to the rings, don't wander right where the chalked ledges are.~Wm

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route, quite a variety of moves.

By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hangerless (mistake?) bolt just short of the the anchors? Cool climb. 10d seems too hard and 4 stars seems to many. But, then again, I don't like cracks :). Could easily lose some bolts and be a mixed route, but, whatever.

By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

really fun climb. It's REALLY not 10d. no way. I led it in flip flops with only 2 falls and I'm not that bad ass.

By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I loved this route. Definitely a great, well-protected line perfect for anyone trying to boost their leading skills into the 5.11 realm.

It is an entertaining, engaging route. It doesn't just "go up" but makes you think: Solid laybacks, fun footwork, and pumpy sections make this one a favorite in my book.

Would call it a 5.10b/c relative to the other stuff in Avalon.

By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Jun 5, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Loved every second of this route. I don't think there's any 10d moves on it, but it's pretty sustained, and being pumped going into the 10a corner at the top means it's really not over until you clip the chains. For me, the crux was just after traversing left out of the alcove right of the bolt line. I thought this was a good bit harder than Marquis de Sade down below.

On another note, I clipped the chains right as some nasty lightning came in. In a rush to get off, I left two alpine draws in the chains. If you find them in good condition, they're yours, though I'll give someone $5 bucks and beer to return them

By Matt Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2014

In my opinion, the definition of a classic sport route. It's long and sustained with great moves the whole way, though the real winning feature is how varied the climb is. From the face moves to the hand jams to the dihedral, it's pure goodness every step of the way.

Get on this.

Edit: Andrew, your draws were MIA, hope you got them back.