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Mt. Gorgeous
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Scorpion Crack, The 

Luscious 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: John Long, Joe Kristy
Page Views: 2,429
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 1, 2008
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me on Luscious, awesome route at Malibu Creek!

Description 

The route starts out vertical on good pockets and gets slightly overhanging by the last bolt (.10-ish). The crux comes between the last bolt and the anchor on mostly vertical ground (.11?).


Location 

On the left side of Mount Gorgeous. Scramble up some 5.0 for about 15 feet to the first bolt, traverse left a bit, and follow up to the anchor.


Protection 

4 Bolts to open shuts



Photos of Luscious Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Gill
Adam Gill
Some guy pushing the limits of innovation in sport climbing by using his Metolius P.A.S. to break the climb up into several smaller, safer, pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Some guy pushing the limits of innovation in sport...
New Fixe Draco SS anchors on Luscious
BETA PHOTO: New Fixe Draco SS anchors on Luscious
Comments on Luscious Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 14, 2009

allegedly redpointed by the infamous spiritual criminal snoop on his 24th burn.

By Alexander
Dec 28, 2009

This route felt a lot easier than 11C/D than the book claims it is. The holds are huge and plentiful, and it's fairly short. It gets interesting at the top, more like strong 11A?

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I think the route could go 5.11c or 5.11a depending on how you finish from the last bolt to the anchors. If you stay true to the bolt line and resist the urge to go out the huge heuco on the right side, then I think 11c is the grade, that huge hold, which feels a tad off route is probably 11a.

By John Long
Aug 29, 2010

Bolts were already in place when Joe Kristy and I did the FA in 2000. Much choss and loose blocks for the first few ascents. By 2006 it had cleaned up nicely. Probably 5.11c if you keep a direct line.

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Super fun, kinda a proj for me last year and my only 11c redpoint to date. While it is a jug haul it is very pumpy with big moves and a definite redpoint crux through deep sharp pockets at the very end. Took the fall from the chains more than once, very clean.

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2011

Reasonable amount of grit in the pockets if there hasn't been recent traffic. Falls above the second bolt or so are pretty much clean. Don't forget to clip to the belay side of the rope when cleaning!

By MisterE
From: Los Angeles, for now
Nov 15, 2013

Anchors replaced November 3 2013. Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware.