|Type:||Trad, Aid, 19 pitches, 2000', Grade VI|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2 [details]|
|FA:||Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew, 1976 FFA: Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, 6/2000|
|Submitted By:||Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008|
|Comments on Lurking Fear||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: western NC
Aug 20, 2010
|Great route! As of Aug 2010 there were no rivets without hangers, they were all bolts with hangers. Also, didn't see any real need for the fixed heads anymore; it appeared that maybe bolts had been added nearby, but who knows, maybe not. The one head we did use was at the beginning of pitch 3, but that one could probably could have been bypassed by top-stepping in the aiders. Also, much of the "hooking" mentioned on supertopo is easily avoided with a little tension traversing.|
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jul 15, 2011
If rapping the route I would suggest going from the P8 belay (at the top of the 4" OW all the way to the P6 belay. This can be done with double 60m ropes with 5-10 feet left to spare.
You will still have to swing a ways to the left but you can use all of the bolts on the P7 traverse to get you there. A touch of sideways aiding on rappel.
This also avoids the semi crappy rappel anchor at P7 (The free climbing anchor below this is good).
Oct 31, 2011
|Trip Report on our 2011 ascent. Trip report|
Jan 21, 2012
|FFA: Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, 6/2000|
From: Malden, MA
Jul 28, 2012
|The topo says something about an 80' swing around the arete to reach the bivy ledge from the top of pitch 10. While I suppose you could get to the bivy ledge from the top of 10 if you HAD to....it would be a real hassle. Just plan on climbing to the top of 11 and rapping down to the ledge....save yourself some trouble.|