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 ADVANCED
Bell Canyon
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Cliffhanger TR 
Flake of Fire S 
Handburger T 
Liberty Bell S 
Lure of Lucre S 
Old Time Revival T 
Once Upon a Climb S 
Silverado Trail TR 
Zinfandel TR 

Lure of Lucre 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (bolted and led by Floyd Hayes, November 2007)
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Sep 28, 2010

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Description 

Relatively clean, long and sustained, this is the best climb at the crag. Surmount a short overhang just right of the overhanging "bell," mantel onto a small pillar, then climb thin face to a double-bolt anchor. The climb is hardest and most sustained if you climb straight up through the bolts, easier if you move left. Above the third bolt either: (1) climb straight up above the last bolt, which is a bit runout (final move is 5.10a); (2) place a small nut or cam in a groove to protect the final move; or (3) move left and clip the last bolt on Once Upon a Climb for an easier 5.6 finish.

Location 

Left of the obvious large hand crack (Old Time Revival). Starts just right of the overhanging "bell" where a bolt is placed just left of a short vertical crack.

Protection 

Three or four bolts plus optional nut or cam.


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