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Sugarloaf, East Face
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971.
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 16, 2007
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Just right of "East Chimney", climb a left facing corner, then knobs (5.8) to a two bolt belay.
Climb face to the top.


Pro to 2", slings for knobs.

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By 426
Mar 12, 2007

2nd pitch pretty runout, short third pitch unless you string it together.

I thought Lurch was classic.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

The two-bolt anchor for this route has chains and can be rapped with a 60 m rope (if the second pitch looks uninspiring...which it kinda does).

After topping out the roof, traverse slightly right, clip a (somewhat older) bolt down low, and finish 20' of face climbing to the anchors by going either just right or just left of the bolt (I went right). I found this section to be the crux mentally of the route as there is no pro to be had and a bad, bad fall awaits (i.e. free-fall onto the slab below). The knobs available are fairly good for hands and feet but not really that sling-able and seemed unlikely to stay roped during any real fall, so why bother. The runout here is essentially PG13 in distance on delicate climbing ground but R in consequences.

Anyhow, the leader should have a pretty cool head for this one!!!

Lurch is a very nice route and a great mind-fuck at moments.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Mar 5, 2011

Mind the rope drag on this one. When I did it, I'd screwed myself so badly with it in the lower crack and coming over the roof I had to pre-yank out enough slack to make my next moves. I think a fall would definitely have been in the R category at that point.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

Fun route, but pretty heady in spots. The second pitch is super run out. It has been years but I remember possible one solid piece 10' out from the anchor and then only one or two very marginal knob tie-offs (one of them slipped of after I had climbed above it) and a crack 6' from the top-out. Felt like a good Toulumne style lead.