By SP Boston From: Watertown, MA May 27, 2014 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
After a very awkward and challenging start that we bypassed by entering from climber's left rather than the right side, this route gets wild! Enter a low ceiling with a thin horizontal finger crack above your head for balance. Move up quickly to horizontal jugs, and position your feet for the lung to the rhino horn. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" there was no dyno involved, but rather a very committing upward move under the roof, with a nice swing forming on the top rope to boot! Overcoming the roof is hard work but huge jugs help the transition to steep 5.8 face climbing to the top (made more difficult by tired arms from the work below).
Several spots made me think for sure I was at the Gunks, not in the jungle of western Mass.
This route is a real gem. It has a techy start into a burly roof to a nice face. I'm 5'5" with a wingspan slightly less and had no problem doing the dyno statically. It requires a very high foot and solid lockoff, but doesn't increase the difficulty more than a grade. Most short climbers are probably accustomed to working around reaches with that move anyway :)