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DescriptionThe island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite. Getting ThereThe only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lundy:
Quay Hole Peeping 5.3 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Montagu Steps to the Old Li... : Pilot's Quay
Quay Hole Corner 5.3 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Montagu Steps to the Old Li... : Pilot's Quay
The Devil's Slide 5.6 PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet The Devil's Slide Area : The Devil's Slide
Road Runner 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet Landing Craft Bay : First Buttress North
Controlled Burning 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 135 feet Torrey Canyon Bay : Torrey Canyon Cliff
Featured Route For Lundy
The Devil's Slide 5.6 PG13 International : United Kingdom : ... : The Devil's Slide
1. Start from the platform and climb directly up the slab (right of center) to a break. Belay.2. Continue on up the slab to a poor belay at the good half way break. 3. Moving slightly right continue up the white scoop delicately. The higher you go the better the gear placement are.4. Continue on up the right edge of the slab until you reach the headwall. Traverse left below the wall and finish up the left side.An alternative (harder) more direct finish can be done up the cracks on th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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