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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 6, 2010

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The Devil's Slide, Lundy

Description 

The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.

The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.

One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website.

www.lundyisland.co.uk/


Getting There 

The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lundy:
Quay Hole Peeping   5.3     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Montagu Steps to the Old Li... : Pilot's Quay
Quay Hole Corner   5.3     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Montagu Steps to the Old Li... : Pilot's Quay
The Devil's Slide   5.6 PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   The Devil's Slide Area : The Devil's Slide
Road Runner   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Landing Craft Bay : First Buttress North
Controlled Burning   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 135 feet   Torrey Canyon Bay : Torrey Canyon Cliff
Browse More Classics in Lundy

Featured Route For Lundy
slabbage

The Devil's Slide 5.6 PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : The Devil's Slide
1. Start from the platform and climb directly up the slab (right of center) to a break. Belay.2. Continue on up the slab to a poor belay at the good half way break. 3. Moving slightly right continue up the white scoop delicately. The higher you go the better the gear placement are.4. Continue on up the right edge of the slab until you reach the headwall. Traverse left below the wall and finish up the left side.An alternative (harder) more direct finish can be done up the cracks on th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Lundy Slideshow Add Photo
The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and provides the perfect setting, with the perfect ale, so discuss the finer points of the days activities.

The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and p...

Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing

Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing

bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)

bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)

lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintessentially british!

lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintess...

getting ready

getting ready

how to get there

how to get there