The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.
The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.
One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website.
1. Start from the platform and climb directly up the slab (right of center) to a break. Belay.2. Continue on up the slab to a poor belay at the good half way break. 3. Moving slightly right continue up the white scoop delicately. The higher you go the better the gear placement are.4. Continue on up the right edge of the slab until you reach the headwall. Traverse left below the wall and finish up the left side.An alternative (harder) more direct finish can be done up the cracks on th...[more]Browse More Classics in International