Lundeklubben  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Todd M. Miller on Aug 7, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Looking at Store Festvag from the main trail (whil...

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Description 

This route follows a nice series of cracks up through the obvious right facing dihedral with the small roof in it in the center of the crag.

P1: (5.10b, 35m) Start up the thin crack to the left of the mossy gully. Fun climbing up the featured crack in the beginning leads to a delicate step over to the right into the main corner. Continue up the main corner to the base of the main crack, then climb it up to a nice belay ledge. Build a belay.

P2: (5.10b, 35m) Climb up the widish crack, mostly using flakes wedged inside, to the small roof. Layback and jam over the roof and continue following the crack system up. Hand traverse left, then climb an easy crack on the right (or a slightly harder one on the left) up and build semi hanging belay on the slab above.

P3: (5.9, 20m) From the belay, climb up and left and then finish up the zig zag cracks straight up and right to the top. A short, fun pitch.

Location 

From the base of Store Festvag, scramble up and left behind the obvious tower at the base of the crag. The route begins from the highest point on top of this tower.

To descend from the top of the crag, walk off climbers right then back down along the base of the crag, passing beneath Skiloperen.

Protection 

Gear to 3". 4" cam is optional.