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Lower Capitalist Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aries S 
Cheap Labor T,S 
Contra S 
Downsizing S 
Five Finger Discount S 
Flexin' Flake T 
High Tides S 
Lunchmoney S 
Mounty T 
Stroh's S 
Strohs Lite S,TR 
Venture Capital S 
Vitamin-N S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lunchmoney 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brandon Patterson and Darren Mabe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,574
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (174)
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Evan halfway up Lunch Money - Lower Capitalist Cra...

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Description 

Approach as for Upper Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Upper Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake. Rap 100 feet to ground.

Protection 

1 belay bolt on ledge, 9-11 protection bolts, and chains anchors.


Photos of Lunchmoney Slideshow Add Photo
Photo: M Gracy.
Photo: M Gracy.
Lunch Money.  Sustained 5.9 climbing up to the roof, and a steep headwall with pumpy, committing moves.
BETA PHOTO: Lunch Money. Sustained 5.9 climbing up to the roo...
Moving past the funky, slippery start.
Moving past the funky, slippery start.
Peter Dillon starting up Lunch Money.
Peter Dillon starting up Lunch Money.
Side view of Lunch Money.  Great climb!
Side view of Lunch Money. Great climb!
Photo: M Gracy.
Photo: M Gracy.
Having fun (a few feet left of the route).
Having fun (a few feet left of the route).

Comments on Lunchmoney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2012
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
May 3, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a very good climb. It definitely deserves 3 stars for clear creek and about 2 stars for everywhere. Two sustained sections with the crux on the upper part. Excellent climbing overall. Awesome.
By piz
May 29, 2002

This route is one of the best 5.9s in the canyon! Must do, a great read, great rock and good fun.

piz :)
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

Excellent route at its grade. Very enjoyable.
By Russell Oakley
Oct 6, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A gorgeous route, highly recommended. It has excellent variety-- edges, a little roof, slab, lieback-- lot's of fun. Nice job, Darren, at spying and equipping an excellent line.

This route definitely deserves three stars!

Solid, thoughtful moves.
By Edward Jenner
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Well, after all the above, I hardly need to add my comments. Obviously this is a fine addition to Clear Creek, thanks to Mr Mabe for putting in the work on this one. One of the best of its grade in the canyon! Of course this may mean that this area starts to see a bit more traffic. I bet there are a few more good lines on this rock that just need a bit of vision and a lot of cleaning.

As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.

Definitely 3 stars for Clear Creek.

Definitely a bit harder that what I would call a 5.9, but maybe not quite solid 10a. Probably harder than some other 9/10a's in the canyon (e.g. at Highwire).
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 19, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. Thoughtful start. Excellent finish. What a find. At least as good as People's Choice. Also, an interesting TR variation (we called Spare Change, 5.9) that takes the face between the cracks on the upper bit.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 12, 2002

The chains have been painted and are no longer visible on the approach.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 3, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great movement. Solid stone. Great for laps. Where else in CCC do you NOT hear the boozed-up-gambling-traffic?
By Pneumoped
May 3, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was a very nice route indeed. I appreciated the variety of climbing in addition to it being sustained. The bolts were nicely placed and in such a way that they did not take the thrill out of leading this climb. Well done!

Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where I go I can find clues left from those that were there before.

Speaking of such evidence, there is a lot of trash around the base of both New Capitalist Crag and Capitalist Crag. Mostly broken glass, bullet shells, and shot gun shells. The next time I visit this area, I plan on bringing a couple of bags and picking up some of the more obvious trash. I hope others will consider giving back to our great outdoors in the same way.

Chris Piper
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
May 3, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Re: the old pin.

The pin was noticed before Lunchmoney was bolted. We believe that the pin was part of an ascending traverse that passed the base of Stroh's and continued up to the large ramp/ledge at the base of Contra. The pin probably protected the hardest section of climbing at about 5.4 and the rest is third or fourth class. There was also a very old Stroh's beer bottle found at the base of Stroh's (the route), but it is believed that it wasn't used for pro.
By Anonymous Coward
May 4, 2004

Chris and Casey: In the Contra route description, I think Darren mentions an optional approach 'pitch' that continues above Lunchmoney, through loose fifth class (where the pin is). This is not recommended, but more of a historical note. Best approach is Mounty.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
May 4, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Anonymous-Thanks. I believe I was the first to lead that "link-up" from Lunchmoney to Contra and the section that the pin is on is above the anchors of Lunchmoney between the Stroh's and Contra ledge systems.

The section of rock that Lunchmoney is on was never climbed before Brandon and Darren's ascent. If it was climbed there was no protection till the roof at about 50 feet up and no evidence of pin scars on the whole route. Any aid climbing would have been about A4 or higher on hooks/heads till the roof and the crux section would take tricky offset nuts or cams or good heads. This scenario is very unlikely at the time that the old pin was placed.

casey
By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great moderate route - 5.9 sport routes don't get any better than this.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun, thoughtful moves below a small roof band. The last 15 feet are on wonderful stone. A potentially significant concern is that the belayer looses sight of the leader once the leader has passed the roof band. Even double slings at the belay did not abrogate the problem. A small TCR was useful above the roof.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 31, 2004

Very fun! Thank you Brandon and Darren.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Maybe I missed the easiest sequence, but I found the upper headwall to be harder than 9+ and a little scary at that. It was hard to commit to the moves to make the 9th clip (2nd bolt on headwall), and there wasn't a good stance or jug to make the clip. I was afraid if I came off before the clip that I'd hit the ledge below the headwall. Your belayer can't see you at this point either.

Nevertheless, a great route with sustained, steep climbing in the lower section, a fun roof, and a committing and pumpy finish.

There are 10 bolts on the route. There isn't a belay bolt at the start, but there is a loop of perlon around a small chockstone that can be used for a belay anchor.
By Walldahl
From: Golden, CO
Jul 27, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Move for move it felt like 5.9+ and they made you think. Although, it is steep (steeper than it looks on the approach), sustained, and with a beautiful crux at the end...while you're pumped. Awesome setting with the river in the background and away from the road.
By jd79
From: Arlee, MT
Jul 5, 2008

Nice route. Be careful on the belay ledge.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 8, 2008

Fun route..We actually tied off a cordelette on the 1st bolt ( boo hiss ) but it allowed the belayer to observe the leader on the headwall. Remember your layback tech, and trust your feet! I found a nice start..clip bolt #1, then move down the ramp a few feet, and climb up just to the right of the first bolt. Maybe mid 5.11...more like a boulder problem, but I would not want to fall off of it w/o a rope attached.
By Luke Childers
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great line. One of the best in the canyon at its grade. But I feel 9- is more fitting for this line. There is only two or three moves even in this grade at the top of the climb in the lay-back crack that last but for a fleeting moment. Anyway. Good climb and a must do!!
By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Those moves up top never get old! This one gets my vote for the best 5.9 in the canyon. I don't think the moves up top are 5.10 if you get the sequence dialed. Must do!
By Sarah Doyle
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 18, 2010

I found belaying for my partner difficult on this climb. My partner was having a hard time on the upper section. I could not see him and could not distinguish what he was yelling... take, slack, clipping? I think this climb would be better as a two-pitch climb, with the second belay at the bottom of the upper section at the natural break in the climb.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sarah, that is the nature of that route unfortunately; however, one way I have worked around that is having the leader skip or back-clean the first bolt, so the belayer can stand back further to see the leader on the crux lieback moves.... Careful on the exposed ledges, though; it is possible to use the first bolt as a belay anchor (tied looong), or use gear or tunnel thread for a belay anchor. Glad you liked the route.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Absolutely stellar route.
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 29, 2010

Yep, I agree with Ben - climbed it with him, and totally enjoyed it. It's nice to get back out and knock the rust off.
By Dale D
From: Parker, CO
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I lead Five Finger Discount before leading Lunchmoney, and I do think Five finger discount required a tad more thinking, commitment above the bolts (last two), and balance.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Tonight I moved the last bolt down and right a couple feet, allowing a secure clipping stance thus minimizing the chance of blowing it and bouncing onto the slab.

Also added was a single belay bolt on the well worn dirt ledge a few feet left of the start of the route. This should help you safely lean out to see your leader make the final moves.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice! Can't wait to check it out.
By Bruno D
From: Boulder, CO
May 22, 2011

What a dope route...loved the lay backs on the upper section. Definitely the best of its grade that I have climbed in the canyon thus far. The belay bolt helped me to see the leader on the headwall, and it was not over bolted.
By Erik Hatlestad
Aug 2, 2011

Per a few of the comments for those who are in belief that the belay box restricts view of the top of the climb, utilize the bolt with a clove hitch to allow you to get farther out. My buddy and I skipped the first bolt as you would hit the deck no matter what. That proved no big deal. The climb was great except the rain screwed us over at the flake. Love the rock, the views, and the climb. Definitely a must do!
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a great crux!!!!
This route was exceptional. The beginning is sustained 5.7 or so and the bolts are well placed.

It was pumpy in parts, techy in parts, and all around entertaining. Even the beginner in our group had a great time on the lower section.

Do this route if you can get a chance!!!
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2012

Great variety on this route! Even though I can lead 5.10, I found this one a serious climb for the leader. There are plenty of bolts, but some areas of sustained moves or where you really want to complete a clip so you can be protected. I wouldn't recommend this route for someone new to leading 5.9, but if you can already lead 5.9, this will be a good challenge.