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Unsorted Routes:

Lunatic 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Michael Kimm, Summer 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Michael Kimm on May 17, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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And steep!!

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Description 

Start in the bowl 40 feet up under the impressive overhanging wall. Climb through four bolts of amazing, Red River Gorge-style varnish pockets to a shallow body-sized hueco. A stretch and some delicate moves up and right gain the flake on the arete, and six more bolts of sustained, steep jugs finally brings you to the anchor. Pumpy. Once it's fully cleaned up, it will be every inch its four stars.


Protection 

Bolts to chains.



Photos of Lunatic Slideshow Add Photo
Brian begins Lunatic. 95 feet to go!
Brian begins Lunatic. 95 feet to go!
Mike in the middle of Lunatic's crux.
Mike in the middle of Lunatic's crux.
Greg through the crux of Lunatic.
Greg through the crux of Lunatic.
Lee on a toprope burn of Lunatic. Steep!
Lee on a toprope burn of Lunatic. Steep!
Mike four bolts up on Lunatic.
Mike four bolts up on Lunatic.
Ocean in the midst of (perhaps) the second ascent of Lunatic at the Fringe.
Ocean in the midst of (perhaps) the second ascent ...
Greg in the opening pockets of Lunatic.
Greg in the opening pockets of Lunatic.
Ocean half way home.
Ocean half way home.
Brian on the arete of Lunatic.
Brian on the arete of Lunatic.
Ocean at the anchor. Long sport pitch!
Ocean at the anchor. Long sport pitch!
by far my favorite route at the Fringe!
by far my favorite route at the Fringe!
Comments on Lunatic Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This line is worth the hike- super fun and mellow start to a very doable crux to an interesting and sustained 50' of climbing. This route is long and fun and not to be missed. Very excited to see it clean up a bit more!

By Austin Boren
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Oct 14, 2013

This is a classic. Great, sustained climbing. 5.11- at least until the flake half way up breaks off.

By Matt Anderson
From: Henderson
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

This and the rest of the climbs at this wall are suspect and chossy for the most part. Not my favorite crag. Needs a ton more traffic for cleaning up.