Lunatic 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | John Biddick, Jody Wallace |
| Submitted By: | Josiah Reams on Jul 9, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the pho...
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Description A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.
Location On the middle of the three formations that collectively make up "The Galaxy" find the noth-western corner and you will see the bolted arete.
Protection 7 bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains on top.
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
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Jon leading the pumpy arete
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Gettin' on Lunatic.
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By Mike McQuarrie
Jul 10, 2007
| Thanks for your comment Brent. Its always nice to see someone thinks a route is as hard as I think it is. |
By Trad Nanny
Jul 22, 2007
| Classic Needles sport climbing. Tricky right below the chains. Well bolted, solid 10b. |
By Jamin Hubner
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 11, 2011
| Been climbing for a few months...tried this route and failed miserably, but it was first time, and plan to go back tomorrow.
youtu.be/AJKv29wWJ4s |
By JohnBiddick
May 21, 2012
| No single move on this climb is too hard, but it is move after move for a while. The sustained nature adds much o trying to climb this clean. Advice: Look for rests when you can find them. When you get half way and cross back right of the arete it becomes slightly overhung...no rests here... go fast for two or three bolts to the next rest. Watch for the sting at the end where the decent sized holds disappear. This is a test piece for me every summer. |
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