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Hen's Nest Rock
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Close to the Edge (CLOSED) T 
Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED) T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Sultans of Stem (CLOSED) T 

Lunatic Fringe 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth 1984
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010

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Locate a splitter hand crack a few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good.

Climb the crack until it fades and then launch out onto the spookily chalkless face. Angle up and right to a ledge. Traverse right to bolt anchors over the chopped sport route and belay.


Few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good. There are bolt anchors to the right. Protect the ledge traverse as best as you can.


Hand sized gear.

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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A single rack, nuts, and tricams work well on this route. There are some smaller pieces than hand sized required for the upper finger crack after the small roof. Bring webbing to replace anchor material. Don't trust old slings! The last little runout is not bad. If you fell, there would be nothing to hit and get injured. It is only about a body length away from several solid pieces of gear. The major thing to watch out for when topping out is not ripping off one of the holds. Otherwise, the moves are easy and not R.
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