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Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Lunatic Fringe 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barry Bates and Bev Johnson 1971
Page Views: 9,187
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (138)
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Jeff Crow cranks through the final moves of Lunati...

Description 

My favorite line on this wall. Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner. Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves. Well protected throughout.

Location 

Hike right from Reeds Direct along the base for 100 yards or so. Climb a 5.6 section for 20-30 feet to gain the thin hands first crux of this route.

Protection 

Standard rack, consider double set of cams from fingers to large hand sizes. Double Rope rappel.


Photos of Lunatic Fringe Slideshow Add Photo
Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Anna entering the final crux.
Anna entering the final crux.
Lunatic Fringe, from the base
BETA PHOTO: Lunatic Fringe, from the base

Comments on Lunatic Fringe Add Comment
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007

One of the best single pitches anywhere. Done it four times and no plans to stop going back.

Edit to add: this is a very good climb to push your limits on, as the protection is great throughout. Also, it begins with a moderate section, affords several rests, and is steep so that any fall in the crux sections should be cleen and airy.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 16, 2007

A candidate for the best single pitch for the grade in the Valley! Absolutely classic!
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 13, 2008

If this is at your limit consider triples on hand sized pieces. It's long and sustained in the upper portion.
By Rob Dillon
Apr 18, 2009

80m rope will just barely reach to TR.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 18, 2009

If you don't have hand sized pieces left for the pods at the top, the pods pinch down in between, allowing great stoppers and small cams.
By Osprey
From: ...
Nov 30, 2009

Do this climb with one 70m rope by rappelling to the bushy ledge on the right side. Pull your rope and let it fall to the ground, then exit the ledge to the right and walk back around to the start.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow, what a pitch. The opening section of tight hands definitely delivers the pump. I placed a red C3 (up top), 2x yellow aliens (up top too), a couple medium to big nuts (the one at the bottom mentioned in the Super Topo is bomber), and otherwise pretty much #0.5 to #3.5 camalot fest. It'll take as many of all those as you want to throw at it - the meat being green camalots to #2 camalots. Definitely a spot or two for #3s as well. I had to work to get the #3.5 in the wide bit... it had to go deep to fit. I placed it primarily to save my #1s.