|Type:||Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2+ [details]|
|FA:||Linus Platt and Brad Quinn, April 1992|
|Submitted By:||Michael Schneiter on Dec 12, 2002|
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|Comments on Lunar Ecstasy||Add Comment|
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 27, 2014
Oct 28, 2004
|Such a pretty route. Did it in the winter and it was pretty cold, but it gets some sun during the day.|
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 1, 2005
This is a great climb. Great exposure, nice belays, and engaging climbing make this one of the best routes I have climbed in Zion.
We took two sets of HB off-set nuts which, with a little back cleaning, turned out to be enough. Off-set Aliens were also helpful.
We climbed the original finish and thought that it was pretty cool. The last few moves are dicey as the rock is a little soft and the pin scars are pretty boxed out.
Once I get them developed and scanned, I will add a few photos.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2005
|I heard the tale of somebody that went up Lunar X with a crowbar and tried to pry off the Amoeba. I don't know the details, but I got a good laugh out of the thought.|
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 14, 2005
|The first bolt off the belay ledge ont the old A4 pitch (#5) is really scary, and a fall would hurt. A lot.I did the Jarret Finish. THe last bolt on it, which is a real reach to clip, is a 3/8 in a 3/4 inch hole... its just barely cammed in there. The top of this pitch felt as hard as any of the c2 ont he route.I used my HB offsets more than my alien offsets.|
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Feb 26, 2006
Just did this route last week- Feb. 2006. Couple of things...the description above list's the wrong pitch as the "leapfrogging aliens" pitch it is actually pitch 6(the next pitch). I found pitch 5 to be the crux, which is the pitch leading off "farewell ledge". The first bolt didn't seem bad to me, but the moves off the top of the bolt ladder were defiantly the crux of the route. I found a red Tri-cam to be the key...without it I could not have done this pitch. Thought it was C2+/C3- It seemed like maybe some of these placements were getting worn out?
After that pitch I thought pitch the next 2 pitch's were no harder than C1+/C2-...no big deal really. A talon hook was key for 2 bat hook moves one around the amoeba, and one near the top of that pitch- both are marked on the topo from bigwall.com.
We took a double set of HB brassies and used mostly the bigger ones...we were quite surprised at how little we actually needed the offsets..however they were key in a couple of spots. We did not have any of the large offsets's and it didn't matter. Offset aliens were nice a couple of places.
A very fun route!
Aug 15, 2007
|anyone know if loweballz are necessary to complete the route???|
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 16, 2007
|Lowe Balls are not necessary but you may find them useful depending on what else you bring. Of course with any route, the recommended gear list will vary from person to person. I repeated this route last spring and I don't think we used, or brought Lowe Balls, although we had a number of offset nuts.|
By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 13, 2008
|Last bolt/pin on the Jarrett finish is gone. It is possible if you are taller to top step and get a .5 in a horizontal crack. No need for ball nuts. A Talon hook helped a lot on the crux section of pitch 5 off of farewell ledge.|
By Kevin Quaderer
Apr 28, 2008
|Great, steep, clean route! With the new DMM aluminum offsets, it's pretty much all C1. Except for the few moves off the bolt ladder on P5. Be sure to wear your free climbing shoes on the thought provoking Amoeba pitch. And the missing last bolt on the Jarrett finish is no problem - there are plenty of options.|
By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Sep 5, 2008
|Beautiful route with some classic pitches. I don't think the route would go clean without tricams, aliens, or offset nuts. P5 was the crux---after the drilled angles and bolts I thought the gear was quite tricky(and your above a ledge). I would suggest C3 possibly for this pitch. I also did not place any cam larger than #3 camalot (I brought old 3.5 and 4 camalot). I had a hook and was happy about that. The DMM aluminum offsets would be nice, but it still would NOT make the route C1. The mandatory free climbing was not too bad, 5.8? at the most. I thought the Jarret finish was one of the best pitches on the route! Have fun out there.|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 5, 2008
If you're shorter (I'm 5'9") you'll have no chance of reaching the .5 camalot placement on the Jarret finish. There are several options to get from the bolt to the cam placement... keep your hooks handy...
We took 3 sets of micro thru large DMM offsets up with us along with a set of tricams and lots of small cams. Didn't need the ballnuts. Did take 2 hooks with us and used them both a couple of times. A handful of screamers were nice to have in a few places.
Great route!! Enjoy!
By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
Dec 3, 2008
Classic Route...One of the best I have done in Zion..
Direct start was super cool...
Third Pitch is awkward as hell to aid (Talon useful)...
The Half Moon Traverse (pitch 4) seemed harder than the topo indicated (we counted less bolts than shown on the topo)
Old "crux" pitch was NTB...tricams and a hook were key..Nice spread for a ledge here.
"Alien Leapfrog" pitch seemed longer than 120'.
The "Amoeba pitch" goes well with thin brass offsets and a bathook hole (when you are stumped feel around..Hard to see)...The free climbing was NTB...decent stance here.
Pitch 8 went quickly...
Jarret Finish is steep and fun....Many, many gold aliens, Final bolt is gone..hooks and horizontal...Good bolts @ lip.
2-3 sets Brass HB
2-3 Sets Aluminum DMM Offsets
pink, red, brown tricam
2 sets offset aliens (yellow green was the MVP)
hooks (Talon and filed Cliffhanger)
1 #3 splitter 2cam
2 set large aliens
2-3 set small aliens
1-2 #2 & #3 camalots
#4 Camalot optional (could easily do with out it)
We brought a lot of shit,took our time, ate, drank, and slept well...Great Vacation..
Route gets a good amount of sun (esp the upper half)
Feb 3, 2009
|Super good route. Everything was straight forward and as expected. We spent one night on the wall 2 pitches from the top. The jarret finish was super fun. steep and great positioning. the missing bolt just added some fun as the gear going out the roof is great and a fall off of a hook move or two would only be a sweet ride over 1200ft of fun. Add this route to your list as it should not be missed.|
By John Widerman
From: Minturn, CO
Apr 22, 2011
|The top out on the Jarrett finish is all worn out now. I feel as if it is getting necessary to put in a new bolt were one once existed. The entire ledge system that once supported hook moves is completely rounded off. Made for a very large headache at the end of a very long day. I assume this is from the last 2 years of hook moves in between the last post and this one.|
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
Apr 25, 2011
By Dan L
Dec 27, 2014
1st pitch: Easy 5.10 variation
Pitch 2-3: There was a slow party on the shared 2nd pitch, so I climbed straight up from the top of the first pitch. I believe this is an established variation, but it didn't look like many people have climbed it. The variation felt 5.10+, very sandy in some spots. The great thing about this variation, is that it bypasses the original 3rd pitch.
4th pitch: The half moon traverse; Easy C1/C2. Bivied at the farewell ledge. (Wonderful Exposure)
5th Pitch: pins to a few pods that are completely worn out. Bypassed by stick clipping a pecker! Very thin! Brass offsets, hb offsets are key! C2+/C3-
6th pitch: I believe this was the pitch where I leapfrogged my C3 #0, 1 and 2. Offsets weren't as useful because it was more splitter than flare. C1+
7th Pitch: IDK how the amoeba is still attached to the wall!! There are a few good size death blocks on top of the amoeba that moved every time I tried to aid/free past them. Sketch!
The remainder of the pitch after the amoeba is very thin, flared, worn out and sandy. I had to make a couple funky aid/free moves 30 feet up from the amoeba; this was the crux for me, mentally and physically (I used ball nuts, hooks, tricams and other stuff to figure out this spot (C3-?)
The MP beta says there are mandatory free moves to the anchor, this is not true. I placed a yellow Totem cam that had one lobe bearly engaged, and standing in the top step on the tips of my toes (I'm 5'9"), I bearly slid in a bomber offset cam.
8th pitch: Sandy, but easy free climbing for 30 feet (5.7). C1+ for the remainder.
Huge ledge at the top.
Pitch 9: I did the original finish; the mandatory (5.8) free moves felt committing, mostly because it was dark and sandy with only mediocre pro. The last 30 feet is worn out. I was lucky to have offset cams and totems. The very last moves are clipping a pin and doing an easy mantle. (5.8 C2)
I used : Metolius Offset cams (1 set), brassies (2 sets), dmm offsets (2 sets), C3's (3 sets), Totems (1 set), link cams (1 set), ball nuts, tricams and hooks.