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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Lunar Avenue 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Stuberg, Ruckgaber, Harrison, 1980
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jul 29, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Sun coming onto the Avenue.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route is only mildly spicy and probably doesn't deserve the "s" rating, but nevertheless, take caution, it's not a good beginner 5.8. This is the face climb just left of Pos. 4th St --start up on good holds and place a good cam low and fiddle a small stopper (or offset nut--a straight-tapered RP or similar doesn't sit well) in a small crack above the flared seam. Now make the "spicy" move above this non-ideal nut, but look for a #2 Friend placement (not really in a continuous crack) when you get to a good rest. Move through the crux here (a lot more spicy if you only have the small nut a body length below your feet) and finish on good holds to the top. Some more small cams can be placed after the crux if you want. Walkoff to the north.


Protection 

Friends from #0.5-2, (possible an offset), a No. 3 or 4 stopper, and a small micro cam or TCU.



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By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

Pretty easy to just TR this route from the tree at the ledge above.

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2008

Fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Dr. Michael Solar to me. One hard move in the middle. Just bear right around the bulge and the holds are all there. Again, too short for a lead.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Apr 18, 2010

Good enough gear on this one, but not great.