Type: Trad
FA: Stuberg, Ruckgaber, Harrison, 1980
Page Views: 1,705 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Jul 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The route is only mildly spicy and probably doesn't deserve the "s" rating, but nevertheless, take caution, it's not a good beginner 5.8. This is the face climb just left of Pos. 4th St --start up on good holds and place a good cam low and fiddle a small stopper (or offset nut--a straight-tapered RP or similar doesn't sit well) in a small crack above the flared seam. Now make the "spicy" move above this non-ideal nut, but look for a #2 Friend placement (not really in a continuous crack) when you get to a good rest. Move through the crux here (a lot more spicy if you only have the small nut a body length below your feet) and finish on good holds to the top. Some more small cams can be placed after the crux if you want. Walkoff to the north.

Protection Suggest change

Friends from #0.5-2, (possible an offset), a No. 3 or 4 stopper, and a small micro cam or TCU.

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