Lunar Abstract  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Todd Skinner, Paul Piana Season:  morning shade Submitted By:  Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

One of the shorter pitches on the Front Side. Barely overhung, but with fun moves. Lunar Abstract even gets a little sun, unusual for Hueco 5.12's.

The pitch begins with barn door lie-backing up a left facing, left leaning, small flake-corner. Hard to see the gear placements on the way to the first bolt. Three bolts protect face climbing on ivory-like rock. End at a double bolt anchor, about 70 feet up.

Location 

Hike in to the Main Wall as if approaching Window Pain. Start from the same belay zone as Lunacy, the big crack/corner. Lunar Abstract starts on the right wall of Lunacy.

Protection 

Some steel nuts and the smallest cams help getting to the first bolt. Then it becomes a sport pitch. Another option is to do either Lunatic Friends or Lunacy to the anchor at 50 meters, then set up a top rope from the Lunar Abstract anchor, passed on the way down.