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By Chad Robbins
Oct 12, 2012
Hi all,
Heading that direction (from Illinois) in a couple weeks and wondering about The Book. Is the area currently open? Any info is appreciated!

CR

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 12, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
it is, I'd recommend Pear Buttress if you haven't done it before. It was my first climb at lumpy and it's a classic. If you want something a little harder, right next to it is loose ends which is equally (if not more) awesome.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 12, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
I'll second Nick's recommendations (Pear Buttress, Loose Ends, J-Crack). PB was my first route in Lumpy and it's downright great. There are many variations possible too... which is super fun if you're feeling like climbing a pitch or two above the 5.8 grade.

In a few weeks it'll be pretty cold but you could get some splitter weather days. Perhaps overdress for the occasion as you never really know what you'll get in Estes Park. Will also be very windy.

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Oct 13, 2012
Chad, it is open. Weather can be fickle this time of the year, but you could have some awesome days on Lumpy then. Expect close to an hour approach. A headlamp could be nice if you are seeking to maximize your climbing.

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By Chad Robbins
Oct 13, 2012
Thanks all for the great info. We are hoping the weather cooperates but will take it as it comes and stay prepared. I get to Ouray in the winter, but have never been rock climbing in CO. Needless to say we are excited about visiting your state.

One thing we do not usually think about here is wildlife. Do I have anything to worry about during early morning approaches into an area like LR? (or any other time for that matter)...

Right now there are 3 of us coming out 10/24-28, if anyone local would like to join please let me know!

Thanks again...CR

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 13, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Chad Robbins wrote:
Thanks all for the great info. We are hoping the weather cooperates but will take it as it comes and stay prepared. I get to Ouray in the winter, but have never been rock climbing in CO. Needless to say we are excited about visiting your state. One thing we do not usually think about here is wildlife. Do I have anything to worry about during early morning approaches into an area like LR? (or any other time for that matter)... Right now there are 3 of us coming out 10/24-28, if anyone local would like to join please let me know! Thanks again...CR


There are bears and elk in the area but you have nothing to worry about, no grizzlies. If weather is bad in lumpy there's a good chance you can drive an hour southwest into boulder and have great weather at Eldorado canyon. I moved out here last year from Chicago... Colorado is a great place, enjoy it!

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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2012
Rewritten
Chad Robbins wrote:
One thing we do not usually think about here is wildlife. Do I have anything to worry about during early morning approaches into an area like LR?


The one thing you need to worry about at LR is ground squirrels! Seriously.
They are voracious little bastards and they will chew through your pack if you leave it at the base with any food in it... also, if they do that, and a park ranger comes by, you can get a ticket (it is your responsibility to secure food).

I've found what works well is to get a plastic container like what gatorade powder comes in, put my food in that, and put a big rock on top of it...

I've run into black bears before hiking out from Lumpy, but they seem to not really care that you are there, just give them space. Seeing bears is relatively rare (in 6 years of climbing there, I've only seen those two bears on one hike out). Elk and deer are relatively common in the morning, but not an issue.

Everyone is recommending Pear Buttress, but I will give you a word of caution about that. If 5.8 is your lead limit the first pitch will be scary as shit! It is only 5.7, but the first 30+ feet is basically runout slab with no gear, and if you blow it, you will likely break your ankle (the landing is not good). I would lead the first pitch of Loose Ends to the right (5.9 which is harder, but you can stitch it up and it is super safe). The other option is to just skip the first pitch by scrambling up the fourth class to the left of it.

J-Crack gets all the respect it seems, but Femp, to the right of it, is more fun in my opinion (super fun hand jams up a long pitch followed by a thin, short corner)

If it is too cold at Lump, drive an hour down to Eldo in Boulder and climb on the West Ridge... south west facing and super warm in the afternoons.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 13, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Julius Beres wrote:
The one thing you need to worry about at LR is ground squirrels! Seriously. They are voracious little bastards and they will chew through your pack if you leave it at the base with any food in it... also, if they do that, and a park ranger comes by, you can get a ticket (it is your responsibility to secure food). I've found what works well is to get a plastic container like what gatorade powder comes in, put my food in that, and put a big rock on top of it... I've run into black bears before hiking out from Lumpy, but they seem to not really care that you are there, just give them space. Seeing bears is relatively rare (in 6 years of climbing there, I've only seen those two bears on one hike out). Elk and deer are relatively common in the morning, but not an issue. Everyone is recommending Pear Buttress, but I will give you a word of caution about that. If 5.8 is your lead limit the first pitch will be scary as shit! It is only 5.7, but the first 30+ feet is basically runout slab with no gear, and if you blow it, you will likely break your ankle (the landing is not good). I would lead the first pitch of Loose Ends to the right (5.9 which is harder, but you can stitch it up and it is super safe). The other option is to just skip the first pitch by scrambling up the fourth class to the left of it. J-Crack gets all the respect it seems, but Femp, to the right of it, is more fun in my opinion (super fun hand jams up a long pitch followed by a thin, short corner) If it is too cold at Lump, drive an hour down to Eldo in Boulder and climb on the West Ridge... south west facing and super warm in the afternoons.


+1 squirrels are brutal, even if your food is sealed they will get it. They even got the bag of peanuts out of my buddys bag that was hanging in the tree. If you're familiar with granite the first pitch isn't too bad, 5.7 slab. It isn't 30'... more like 15' and then you can reach up and place a #1. There really should be a bolt there but that's another story...

I found Loose ends HARD for 5.9, another option would be to go a little further to left book and do white whale, hiatus, the dog all at 5.7 and 2/3 pitches in length. The first pitch of fat city goes at 5.8 and has a bolted anchor that can be rapped off of which is also a great hand/fist crack as a warm up or cool down.

If you end up at Eldo and the weather is good I'd recommend the Ruper if you're comfortable on 5.8 with a little runout, or Gambit at 5.8 with a little loose rock but a great summit. Both will be in the sun.

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By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2012
"+1 squirrels are brutal, even if your food is sealed they will get it. They even got the bag of peanuts out of my buddys bag that was hanging in the tree."

I wonder how a squirrel got to a bag of food hanging in a tree?

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By Jeremy Monahan
From Fort Fun, CO
Oct 13, 2012
View of Longs Peak from Mt. Alice, RMNP
So, not to completely hijack this thread, but is there any chance that Lumpy will be dry tomorrow? I have had Sunday set aside for a while to get to Lumpy.

Any Estes locals care to comment on the weather today? Steady rain? Snow?

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 13, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Jeremy Monahan wrote:
So, not to completely hijack this thread, but is there any chance that Lumpy will be dry tomorrow? I have had Sunday set aside for a while to get to Lumpy. Any Estes locals care to comment on the weather today? Steady rain? Snow?


forecast is sunny and 57, I'd say it'll be great.

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By Chad Robbins
Oct 13, 2012
Great info, thank you.
Certainly didn't expect to beware the ground squirrels!

I have my eye on Osiris and the Great Dihedral, but starting on the Left Book. Have never climbed on granite before so seriously looking forward to that. Everything here is limestone or quarzite (can be very technical). The second pitch on Hiatus looks great! Planning on visiting Boulder as well. Going to maximize our time in CO for sure.

Thanks again all!

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 13, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
dont skip white whale, it's really fun! pear buttress is really awesome also... some advice would be, "smear onto nothing"

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 14, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
I have seen smarter folks than I put their snacks in a nalgene bottle at Lumpy's. I know someone makes bear boxes about that size too.

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By Jeremy Monahan
From Fort Fun, CO
Oct 17, 2012
View of Longs Peak from Mt. Alice, RMNP
Slightly off topic, but last Sunday (10/14), Macgregor Rd. was closed just after the parking lot for the church on the R (East) side of the road.

There was a "Road Closed" sign with a "No Pedestrians" sign below it just before the turn off for Devil's Gulch road. I didn't want to risk cutting through that barrier and the Macgregor Ranch property to climb, but there was no other signs or anything except for the closed sign.

Anyone have any idea why the road was closed? Has this happened before?

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 17, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
I ran into this roadblock too. Apparently there's a detour to access Lumpy. Instead of going straight through the intersection in Estes (34/36) head right towards Loveland...? And then there's another road that you'll turn left on to get to Lumpy... this is all hearsay so I can't confirm if this is actually true but I heard it from a reliable person, so it must be true.

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Oct 17, 2012
Yeah, it's been plugged up of late.

You can access it, I think, by taking Dry Gulch Road (off US 34 near the east end of Lake Estes) north, then go left (E) at H Bar Rd, then left (SE) on Devil's Gulch Rd.

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