|1,438 page views|
Jon Cannon at the beginning of Lumina.
Behind and just left of QOB Pinnacle, Lumina appears to start in a grungy crack-like thing (at least I always have!). Move out right to the face after 10 - 15 ft and the climbing returns to fine pockets with the occasional horrizontal seam thrown in. If you need a second warm up, Lumina is recommended. Good rock, clean pockets, continuous 5.9 climbing. This line has a bit of run-out in getting to the anchor, but the angle drops back a bit and the final climbing is very much on the feet and substantially easier than the middle 40 ft. Nice climbing, nothing very complex.
Eight draws and a rope.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 28, 2001
I think you may have a typo here. The is rated 5.9 in the book and climbs like a it also.
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Dec 27, 2001
I second the "typo" thing. I (and most books, fellow climbers, friends,etc. rate Lumina from 5.8-5.10a depending on the conditions and number of beers the night before. I prefer to climb it as a warm-up for "Porkfist" before moving on to the "business" of the day.
|By Sean O'Dell|
Mar 30, 2004
Pretty sustained but most of the clipping stances throw you a bone with a ledge or a big pocket. Definitely a 9 though...if this route is .8 then something like, say, Period Piece is a .6.
|By Larry Shaw|
Jul 12, 2005
Thought it was a great route but felt easier than most the .9's that day. If this crack were in the South Platte it would be a .7.
|By Jo Holloway|
May 8, 2006
This route is rated as a 5.8 by Knapp et al. in the Sharp End guidebook. It most certainly isn't, but it is a solid 5.9, and worth the climb. The 5.9 rating is merited by some good rests and decent handholds throughout. There are a couple of handcrack moves to keep things fun if you care to.
From: Durango, CO
Nov 5, 2007
I agree w/ L.S., if this route were in the SPlatte it would be graded 5.7. Fun moves on this one with a couple sharp handjams through the crux. Big fun!
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2008
I really wouldn't rate this as a 5.9. It was certainly a fantastic climb, and I gave it 4 stars, because it is long and spicy. I would call it a solid 5.8, but not much more. There are plenty of rests throughout, and every time you need a hold, it is there for you. Also, the bolt placement alone makes it fairly easy compared to most crack climbs.
|By Larry Rossi|
Sep 6, 2009
The left bolt at the anchor is a bit loose. I don't think it's dangerous yet, but this is such a popular route that it might become a problem.
I don't have any bolting skills to fix it, but if anyone wants to do so, I'll pony up for the gear and give a belay.
|By Aaron C. Smith|
Sep 28, 2009
FYI: Bolt 4 and the left anchor bolt are loose and were moving away from the rock. They probably need to be replaced, not tightened. Made the route a little more interesting.