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Luke Slingwalker 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gary Gray, Doug Davis, '93
Page Views: 1,388
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 3, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The airy step across from the ledge to the start o...
  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route will take some route finding ability and the discipline to not head for the bolted routes that bracket it. If you are clipping bolts you are off route.


    Location 

    Approach is the same as If You Bolt It They Will Come. Start from rock above the main ledge on the far left side of the cliff face. P1) Climb chickenheads past all fixed gear to a big ledge. P2) Step across chimney and pull on to face and work your way on the easiest ground to the top of the tower. A set of chains over to the right of the route when you are looking down it are a little spooky to get to. A 99ft. rappel gets you barely to a set of anchors. From these another single rope rap will get you to the bottom of a big chimney. As you exit this drop down and left 100 feet to the next short chimney. Scramble up this to get back to where you started.


    Protection 

    Standard rack and lots of long runners for chickenheads.



    Photos of Luke Slingwalker Slideshow Add Photo
    First pitch from leader's point of view
    BETA PHOTO: First pitch from leader's point of view
    2nd pitch
    BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch
    Comments on Luke Slingwalker Add Comment
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    By Sasquach
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Sep 16, 2009

    If you want to get another pitch in do Han Solo (5.7R) to get up to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker begins.

    By adrian korosec
    From: tucson,az
    Oct 8, 2012

    It's really too bad the first pitch of this route is "bracketed" by bolts. Hotshot's first pitch is what, 3 feet to the left? Nice. Slingwalker should have served as the approach pitch to the upper pitches of Hotshot, which is off to the left.

    As a result, the first pitch of Slingwalker, which existed before its neighbors, is somewhat lost in obscurity. As in, "oh there's a bolt, I better not go that way. Oh there's another bolt, can't head that way either". Now, what was once a line that was thought provoking and followed natural weaknesses, ricochets back and forth between bolts.

    We climbed Quickdraw McGraw on Wheeler Wall and it suffers this fate as well. However, that act was at least performed by the first ascentionist.

    Crossing and crowding routes...bad form.

    By Jimbo
    Oct 10, 2012

    Lets see the line I want to do is a trad line. Bolts to the left and bolts to the right? I know I'll climb between them and place gear and sling heads on the way. Damn that WAS hard to figure out!

    You had better stay away from the Stronghold and the Druid if bolt lines around old existing trad lines gets your panties in a bunch.
    Plenty of moderate trad lines with no bolt encroachment on Rap Rock also.

    Luke Slingwalker is a fun climb but hardly a classic to be revered.

    By adrian korosec
    From: tucson,az
    Oct 11, 2012

    Hey Jimbo,
    Yep, truly a shame at the Druid and some parts of the Stronghold. I'd rather not think about it as it makes me sick. We really need to ask ourselves before we drill, "does this route add to the quality of the crag, or is there a different reason I'm tempted to begin drilling". I'd say most serial drillers have other reasons in mind.

    But we've been through all this before and what's done is done. No use getting upset over it again. I'll try my best to forget about it.

    I did enjoy Slingwalker and recommend it. Just remember to find the Hotshot anchors to rap from the top. Not the older, more obvious bolts. Both descend to the west but you are looking for the new ones just a bit more north of the old, seasoned ones that are more obvious.

    Cheer,
    Adrian

    By Scott M. McNamara
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Oct 11, 2012

    The first ascentionist's (Gary Gray, RIP---8/19/91) mom just wrote a book about Gary's death.

    Gary died in the North Cascades on the North West Couloir of Mt. Shuksan from a serac.

    Roaring Mountain, Shirley Gray 2012.

    I believe the route was put up in 1983.

    By Paul Davidson
    Oct 17, 2012

    Thanks for that note Scott.
    Had to order the book from Amazon.

    Gary was a great guy and a fine asset to the Tucson scene of the '80s. I believe he did a bit of work with the Summit Hut under the counter guide, some of which helped JS with his later work.

    He and Doug did a number of fine back country adventures together. My last time I saw him was on one of his trips through NM and we had an awesome full on Tele powder day up in Santa Fe in about '90. It was snowing so hard that every run was fresh tracks. Good memory of a lost friend.

    FYI, for the FA info, Gary's last name is Gray, not Grey.

    By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
    Apr 19, 2013

    If you're so traditional that a bolt nearby offends you, please climb it trad, skip the bolts, and keep your boldness to yourself. However, if the bolts offend you because others are doing it without your same boldness and you're upset, perhaps you are just being arrogant. Personally, I climb trad and sport without preference (unless it's too runout--aka dangerous--and too close to my own limit for comfort). I have not bolted any routes, but would buy a beer for anyone would puts in bolts, anchors, or cleans a dirty route. Shut up and enjoy climbing before the government takes that away along with our guns, privacy, and marriage preferences.