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> Deliverance Rock
Lucy
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Worsfold Burke Thornburg |
Page Views: | 1,470 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Todd Worsfold on Nov 7, 2015 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
The crux of Lucy is the first 20', climbing out the left edge of a cave. Really dynamic movement with some delicate footwork to exit the crux and gain the upper face.
Location
Lucy is found on the south-facing upper terminus of the Deliverance ridge("Deliverance" is on the north-facing side). When climbing Lucy you are across a gully from the Castle Rock ridge). To find the climb, you can either hike down from the top of castle rock or ascend up the north side of the Castle Rock ridge for 200 yards. At this point leave the main trail and traverse north towards an obvious, 30' high block. 4th class over a small ridge (15' high) and continue north to the base of the block and then ascend upwards, eventually angling right. When you get to the top of the ridge, you will be looking across a gully to Castle Rock to the south and you will be above Lucy. You can either look for the rap anchors (sketchy), or continue around and down to the base (less sketchy).
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