Lucy in the Sky  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Mike McGee, Rex Mammel Submitted By:  Monomaniac on May 30, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This line is substantially better than it sounds in the Sharp End Guide. With good rock and fun, entry-level arete moves, this route would make a good warm-up. Begin below the rounded prow left of 14 Carats. Bear-hug up the rounded prow, moving slightly left around the 4th bolt to a good ledge-rest. Pass the rooflet on the right, and follow easier terrain to the anchor.

Location 

Right of Sunrise Arete, left of 14 Carats. Climbs the prow where the trail from the road first meets the cliff.

Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. The anchor is a bit weird, with one bolt on each face of the dihedral. It seems this would but some undesirable, axial stress on the anchor bolts when lowering or rappelling.