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 ADVANCED
Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Crowder, Chris Hall, 1991
Page Views: 3,350
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Paul following LSD.

Description 

LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there.

Location 

LSD is located between Afternoon Delight and Special Edition on the steep slab right of the balance climb area on the right side of the main face.

Protection 

3 bolts, anchors.


Comments on Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds Add Comment
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By Shadrock
From: Athens, GA
Nov 30, 2009

Ground fall potential can be mitigated by starting to the right (Under Special Edition), placing a few pieces, and then traversing back left and up for the first bolt.
By joe disciullo
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 14, 2010

Should this be listed as Trad or Trad, Sport instead of Sport?
By Claymsmith
Mar 11, 2013

This route is now completely sport aside from a few placements here and there. There is a nice pocket that I was able to fit a .75 BD cam into before first bolt. Not bomber, but would stop a slide.
Leadouts are fairly long but not really dangerous aside from scraped knees. Staying slightly right after the first bolt, there is a nice sidepull that gives a rest from the finger crunching.
By s f
From: GA/CO
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Just to clarify, this route was not retro-bolted or turned "sport". The old bolts were replaced (July 2011) one for one per the original equipper's placements. Much in the spirit of North Carolina slab climbing, the bolts will keep you off of the ground where gear can't.
By Stuart Teague
Apr 15, 2014

Great climb. You might even get away with calling it, "Anti-sport." Don't pound the caffeine before a morning try.