Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Michael Crowder, Chris Hall, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Mekolites on Apr 8, 2007 |
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Paul following LSD.
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Description LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there.
Location LSD is located between Afternoon Delight and Special Edition on the steep slab right of the balance climb area on the right side of the main face.
Protection 3 bolts, anchors.
| Comments on Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds |
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By Shadrock
From: Washington, DC
Nov 30, 2009
| Ground fall potential can be mitigated by starting to the right (Under Special Edition), placing a few pieces, and then traversing back left and up for the first bolt. |
By Paul Barnes
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Dec 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| There is gear before the first bolt on the ramp leading up to it. 00 TCU or equivalent. |
By joe disciullo
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 14, 2010
| Should this be listed as Trad or Trad, Sport instead of Sport? |
By Claymsmith
Mar 11, 2013
| This route is now completely sport aside from a few placements here and there. There is a nice pocket that I was able to fit a .75 BD cam into before first bolt. Not bomber, but would stop a slide.
Leadouts are fairly long but not really dangerous aside from scraped knees. Staying slightly right after the first bolt, there is a nice sidepull that gives a rest from the finger crunching. |
By s f
From: Georgia
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a PG13
| Just to clarify, this route was not retro-bolted or turned "sport". The old bolts were replaced (July 2011) one for one per the original equipper's placements. Much in the spirit of North Carolina slab climbing, the bolts will keep you off of the ground where gear can't. |
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