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Der Freischutz
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Lucy and Devi Go Mousing 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Resnick, David Light
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 28, 2002
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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This obscure little sport climb lies on Der Freischutz in the complicated Dinosaur Mountain area. Hike the Mallory Cave Trail, past Dinosaur Rock and up into the gully S of Der Zerkle. A bit of scrambling here. Find this rock on your left. This route is on the lower west face. Find a 4 bolt steep slab.

This devious, steep, slab route has thin face climbing past 4 bolts with cruxes after the 2nd bolt and after the 4th bolt. Rossiter describes using some underclings. 2 bolt anchor.

This felt stiff for the 11a rating told to me by Scott, but it was done a while back. Chalk helps. Lack of sun helps. It may be a bit runout above the 4th bolt. It may be a challenging onsight.

Just to the left is a 3 bolt line, Sidewalk Stroll, 11a (according to Scott).


Protection 

4 QDs and slings for the anchors.



Comments on Lucy and Devi Go Mousing Add Comment
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By Doug Redosh
Apr 20, 2003

I think we were on this route... though not sure. Did seem stiff for 11a. There was a bail biner and sling on the 4th bolt; there is now a bail biner on the 2nd bolt as well.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

5.11a, huh? Oh, My, God.
Well, I guess I just don't climb that hard at all.
Best advice- get on it when it is cool and shaded. Hot and sunny is NOT going to work!