This obscure little sport climb lies on Der Freischutz in the complicated Dinosaur Mountain area. Hike the Mallory Cave Trail, past Dinosaur Rock and up into the gully S of Der Zerkle. A bit of scrambling here. Find this rock on your left. This route is on the lower west face. Find a 4 bolt steep slab.
This devious, steep, slab route has thin face climbing past 4 bolts with cruxes after the 2nd bolt and after the 4th bolt. Rossiter describes using some underclings. 2 bolt anchor.
This felt stiff for the 11a rating told to me by Scott, but it was done a while back. Chalk helps. Lack of sun helps. It may be a bit runout above the 4th bolt. It may be a challenging onsight.
Just to the left is a 3 bolt line, Sidewalk Stroll, 11a (according to Scott).
4 QDs and slings for the anchors.
|Comments on Lucy and Devi Go Mousing
|By Doug Redosh|
Apr 20, 2003
I think we were on this route... though not sure. Did seem stiff for 11a. There was a bail biner and sling on the 4th bolt; there is now a bail biner on the 2nd bolt as well.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
5.11a, huh? Oh, My, God.
Well, I guess I just don't climb that hard at all.
Best advice- get on it when it is cool and shaded. Hot and sunny is NOT going to work!