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Lucky Strike 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
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Submitted By: WAGbag on Nov 6, 2012
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Description 

Two things make this different that most other climbs on the island: 1) The grade is solid and 2) There is deck potential at the 2nd

The start is the crux with terrible feet climbing above the 1st bolt. If a longer draw is hung at the 2nd you can clip before pulling the crux. Or you can yard on the first draw, clip the 2nd, lower then send. It's all worth it to get the climbing above, following the right of parallel tufas. Grab a kneebar rest, trend rt then back left at the anchors with mounting pump to find that you've got one more thing to do before you declare success... snatch a lucky strike off a deadpoint from a marginal left sloper and a right crimp.


Location 

painted name


Protection 

bolts



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