Lucky Streak  5.11a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Jim Knight Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Apr 22, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A heady, exciting route that runs "across-the-grain" of the main Ed and Terry.

The line starts near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right crossing several other routes on the way to a position at the top of the wall that is directly above the start of Main Crack.

Start below the gray-colored bolt visible near the left side of the main wall, and trend generally up and right. Surmount a thin section above the third bolt and climb directly over the “lump” up whose right edge Flakes climbs.

Continue up and right, clipping a few of the bolts on Call it a Knight and eventually cross Main Crack.

Put in a cam (a #2 or a #3 Camalot will work) and continue (wait for it...) up and right past a final bolt not shared with any other route, and then to the chains.

With a 70m rope it is possible to lower to the base of Main Crack. With anything shorter, someone will have to follow the route. The route goes up and over about 130 feet or so (the top is about 40 feet right of the start), but the location to which you lower is higher than where you started.

Location 

Starts below the gray-colored bolt near the left side of the main wall and trends up and right to chains directly above the start of Main Crack.

Protection 

10 bolts, chains, a #2 or #3 Camalot-sized cam, slings, and possibly a few small nuts for supplemental protection.