Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Faint Horizon S 
Assassin , The S 
Continental Drift S 
Hermit, The S 
Holy Roller S 
Lucky Old Sun S 
Man On the Moon S 
Scythe, The S 
Slipstream S 
Solitaire S 
Thunderbird ArÍte  S 
Whiplash S 

Lucky Old Sun 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
David nearing the top. Wade Forrest Photo

Description 

Lucky Old Sun is a deceptive line... It's steeper than it looks, harder than it looks, and better than it looks. And it's a good looking line.

Start as for the Scythe, up the rampy slab to the high first bolt. Throw a runner on the first bolt and move up to the second bolt. Start moving up and right past a good sidepull, a 1 foot tall finger crack, and up to a good jug. Keep moving up and right on bulging terrain with good holds. Rest up below the roof, because the crux awaits just above you. Pulling the roof and getting established may be the crux, but the next couple moves are not easy either. Once established on the steep slab, enjoy the perfect pockets and mysterious lack of foot holds to the anchor.

A must do for the area.

A 60 meter rope will just barely suffice to lead, and lower. Best to clean it via toprope.

However, there is a chain draw on bolt #8 which is just over the lip on the slab. If you rig right the leader can clean the pitch themselves by lowering back through this chain draw.

Also, bolts are in the best rock, not the most convenient. Send the tallest of your people up first to hang the draws.

Location 

Shares the first 2 bolts of the Scythe low on the Main Wall. First routes you will come to on the Main Wall.

Protection 

11 bolts, chain anchor- no fixed biners= 13 draws.


Photos of Lucky Old Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Myself high on the slab during the FA.  Wade Forre...
Myself high on the slab during the FA. Wade Forre...
Wade enjoying some freakishly good holds on the st...
Wade enjoying some freakishly good holds on the st...
Wade near the top.  Great exposure for the backyar...
Wade near the top. Great exposure for the backyar...
Wade pulling the roof and entering the steep slab.
Wade pulling the roof and entering the steep slab.
David D. going for the pocket pinch.  Wade Forrest...
David D. going for the pocket pinch. Wade Forrest...
Tiptoeing on the edge of the hanging slab.
Tiptoeing on the edge of the hanging slab.
Lucky beta.
BETA PHOTO: Lucky beta.

Comments on Lucky Old Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clay Mansfield
Feb 9, 2014

Awesome! The top reminded me of casting off onto an airy Cochise slab, with your belayer out of sight.