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Lucky Old Sun 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 3, 2011

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Wade Forrest, done with the traverse crux, and clo...

Description 

Lucky Old Sun is a deceptive and unique line... It's steeper than it looks, harder than it looks, and better than it looks. And it's a good looking line.

Start as for the Scythe, up the rampy slab to the high first bolt. Throw a runner on the first bolt and move up to the second bolt. After the third bolt, start moving up and right past a good sidepull, a 1 foot tall finger crack, and up to a good jug. Keep moving up and right on bulging bronze shields. The holds are good but hard to see without any chalk traces, and this section is deceptively technical and pumpy.

After the bronze section there is a somewhat chossy alcove. Stem up on large foot holds to a distinctive notch in the little roof at the top of the alcove. At this point you will see a bolt with a chain on it just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw (LOS Direct goes straight up left arÍte) pulling over the notch in the little roof and getting established on the horizontal seam feature to climber's right is the crux, while the next couple moves are not easy either as you move right. Once established on the steep slab water runnel enjoy the interesting hand holds, and a mysterious lack of foot holds as you begin moving vertically again.

A 60 meter rope will just barely suffice to lead, and lower. 70M rope recommended.

Someone will need to follow the pitch to clean the draws.

Also the bolts are in the best rock, not the most convenient. Send the tallest of your people up first to hang the draws....

Location 

Shares the first 3 bolts of the Scythe low on the Main Wall. First routes you will come to on the Main Wall.

Protection 

12 bolts
3 bolt chain anchor
14 runners, long draws, and standard draws


Photos of Lucky Old Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Wade enjoying some freakishly good holds on the st...
Wade enjoying some freakishly good holds on the st...
David nearing the top.  Wade Forrest Photo
David nearing the top. Wade Forrest Photo
JJ working across the slaberrific crux, up high on...
JJ working across the slaberrific crux, up high on...
Wade pulling the roof and entering the steep slab.
Wade pulling the roof and entering the steep slab.
David D. going for the pocket pinch.  Wade Forrest...
David D. going for the pocket pinch. Wade Forrest...
Tiptoeing on the edge of the hanging slab.
Tiptoeing on the edge of the hanging slab.
Lucky beta.
BETA PHOTO: Lucky beta.

Comments on Lucky Old Sun Add Comment
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By Clay Mansfield
Feb 9, 2014

Awesome! The top reminded me of casting off onto an airy Cochise slab, with your belayer out of sight.
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