Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Griffith/Guerin, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001 |
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Tony Bubb leads up the deceptively steep and thin ...
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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Sphinx
Medusa
Details.
In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Flatirons Climbing CouncilPreserving climbing access in the Flatirons
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Description Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.
Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.
Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.
Protection Small/medium wires, small cams, 1 bolt.
Wedging in a brass micro to protect the thin crux ...
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Callum scrambles it like an egg.
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| Comments on Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint |
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 1, 2008
| Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low today with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.
Kudos to Matt who had to finish drilling the last inch by hand when the battery went dead in the drill, all while racing the oncoming darkness.
Also, I think this route would benefit from a bolted anchor to be shared with Leprechaun instead of the slung boulder on the ledge. Just my two cents on the matter. |
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Sep 25, 2009
| This is a really fun climb. Well worth getting on if you're a confident face climber at the grade. I felt the crux moves were pretty thin, and, in my case, protected only by a #3 BD brass that I got about 12 or 13 feet above at one point. Very exciting. |
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