A hard start with a few big pockets gets you to bolt 2, where you'll angle to the right passing 2 more bolts protecting a somewhat awkward/thin crimpy crux, then up and left to the chains on a ledge.
This climb is the 3rd one from the right on Red Wall (a climb not documented in RC:NM is to its right).
4 (or was it 5?) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel with 1 50m rope.
|Comments on Lucid Fairyland
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jun 18, 2011
This route CAN be set up from a traverse from the short 5.8 to the right of it.