Lucid Fairyland (5.8 var.)  5.8

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Fleafer piddling around on the 5.8

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Description 

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra (aka Lopsy Lou) instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location 

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.