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Lt. Uhuru 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Apr 28, 2009

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Fun at the roof!

Description 

Lt. Uhuru climbs the left facing corner left of Black Uhuru. Like Black Uhuru, Lt. Uhuru is mostly laybacking and jamming between good stances. The significant difference is the short corner roof at about 80 feet. If you are like me and hang out beneath the roof for a couple falls the end isn't bad, otherwise you may need some juice to get to the anchor. Note, the roof may be a little sandy, and something crumbled under my feet at one of the other stance and my belayer had to dodge.

Location 

The left facing corner left of Black Uhuru.

Protection 

The anchors are at a full hundred feet, and consist of tat, so it may be wise to bring some new webbing along. The corner is mostly 1.5 friends.


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 7, 2010

much fun - the lower laybacking is just as nice, and little more sustained, than Black Uhuru.

a little more gear beta for those interested - lower laybacking section takes .75 Camalots (i used four), and the crux roof sews up with #1 Friend/.5 Camalots/orange metolius (i used one of each). other than that, bring singles from yellow metolius to #2 or #3 Camalot. as a side note, the anchors are still bogus tat - probably the same stuff Brian mentions in his description.