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Lower West Spoon Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 5
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Routes in (H) Brier Patch (Creek Wall)
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Lower West Spoon Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Use Dipper S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 48 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jason Halladay and Allison Fritz |
| Page Views: | 620 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
The obvious right-trending hand crack line up the wall. Scramble up a couple of ledges placing finger size gear before throwing yourself into the hand and off-hand crack. A wobbler block keyed into the crack about half way offers a jug hold. The crack widens as you get higher and a roof comes in from the left. Layback the roof while wishing it went on for longer and stop on the ledge. Metolius rap hanger two-bolt anchor is on the left. The anchor is hard to see from the ground but it is there.
Originally the anchor was on the right of the crack just below the roof because the final moves were pretty dirty. After it was cleaned the anchor was moved higher and left to include more fun climbing.
Because the route was climbed ground-up with no pre-cleaning it might still be a bit dirty and some stuff could pull off. Use your judgment and some caution and don't take holds for granted.
Originally the anchor was on the right of the crack just below the roof because the final moves were pretty dirty. After it was cleaned the anchor was moved higher and left to include more fun climbing.
Because the route was climbed ground-up with no pre-cleaning it might still be a bit dirty and some stuff could pull off. Use your judgment and some caution and don't take holds for granted.
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