Lower Tier, Bolt Route 

Burrrrnnneeeyyy. Only a couple of resting points on the way up. Very interesting moves on the top and bottom, with scarce deminishing feet in many sections. Beware!!! The 8th and 12th bolts are loose, and will probably pull out on someone pretty soon.

One of my Bay Area favorites. The start frustrates a lot of people, but once you get past it, it's sustained and intense. If you have a TR set up on it, you can climb up Amazing Face a bit and swing over to skip the start. That's cheating, to be sure, but if the first couple moves are stumping you, at least you can enjoy the rest of it.

The 8th and 12th bolts need redrilling, as they are both quite loose.

This is a great route! First moves are frustrating. Fingers and feet slip off without warning. I think this route is mistakenly rated at 5.10b in the newest Bay Area Climbing book. No way is this 5.10b! I think the bottom moves are the hardest with another hard move getting to third bolt. There are 2 or 3 no hands rests but on the lead I couldn't take advantage of them. Last move to the chains was very hard for me too as my arms were fried. A very enjoyable climb once you get off the ground! I would say at least a letter grade harder than Ozone direct variation which is really only one hard move. *** I just registered but wanted to post this today. Paul Rezucha

Very nice and technical climb. Using a pair of lace up shoes will help you stand on small footholds. hard start and sustained climbing up to a second crux at the top, some creative footwork required. It was my first time at Mt Diablo (climbing) and I was very surprised, this place is a little gem. A little too many bolts on the route ( 12!) and .11a in my opinion. because of the 2 cruxes and because of the continuity.

Sandy up top, and the flakes left behind near where the old bolts were pulled are ready to snap. COnstant TR'ing had worn the top holds so soft nubs and it is a little scarey up there. This is not a 'speach' it's just an observation. The nature of this stone gives itselt to that sort of issue.

Good route, but a little mucky when it's hot or humid. Do it before you wear your pads down to a seaping mess- you need the friction.

harder than any of the other 10's by leagues. compared to this, Ozone and Diagonal Crack (even on trad lead) are cake walks.

Dire Blow(?) Right of "Bolt Route" (can't we came up with better names here?) rebolted, very technical 5.11c. the first bolt is a bit high, but once you have the starting sequence of moves down, is not that scary. the route continues on tiny crimps and sidepulls with med to hig feet moves, very interesting overall. Skip the last 2 old rusty bolts for the new ones a bit on the left.Beautiful climb, to do as soon as you send "Bolted Route"Lead it!

Very nice climb! Thin sustained face and many many bolts to make you feel safe and warm inside. I didn't notice the loose bolts, they may have been replaced by now. Bay area climbs has it rated at 10b....no freakin' way! Solid 11a, possibly a/b.

I concur with others, the first 15 ft of climbing is the hardest. And definitely STOUT 5.10. Gee why don't the simply rate it what it is!(5.11c)

Hans is right! The start is hard for the first 2 - 3 bolts. Maybe when it was first done it was 5.10 but it is sandstone and stuff has broken off. If this isn't 11.c then there are a lot of other 5.11's out there that are overrated.

Ya, I climbed this today, well more like crawled up the route. I also agree with Hans, that is more like a 11c. I mostly say that because it makes me feel better about myself.

I rope soloed this today. Easy enough with the bolts every 5 feet. My first impression--11c/d. Glad to see others agree. Now, start calling that route right of the crack what it is--12B.

I think this is one of the best climbs at the crag. It is long,very technical, well protected and super fun.

This route is sand-bagged. I was hoping to have a nice cruiser to finish the day yesterday and holy shit! This route destroyed me! The beginning sequence is bouldery, and I would say is at LEAST V2, if not V3. The top crux is at least V2 as well, so there is no way this goes at 10d. I am being tentative when I say it's 11b/c because my feet were sore and maybe it's a style of sandstone thin face climbing that I am less familiar with. But really guys, I think we're looking at 11c/d here. I think the first crux is V3 and the last is V2 but just as hard because of how sustained the route is. Great line, excellent route.

.11 for sure

Need to update the bolt count as it is 13 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Super well protected, though.

I also think this is a 5.11b/c. The start is a v3 and the section from bolt 12-13 has a 3-finger pinch step through. If you like slabby crimposaurus climbs, this is right up your alley.