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Amazing Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 7,882
Submitted By: Katie Purtill on Jun 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (105)
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Climbing amazing face :)

Description 

A decent face route with some interesting moves. Apparently the most-wanted route in the area but I can't imagine why... The actual climbing on "Amazing Face" is pretty average, but you get a great view between your heels in the upper part of the climb. P.S.- The belayer gets two points for dropping a falling climber into either of the man-eating holes at the bottom of the route.

Protection 

Eleven bolts and a three bolt anchor (no chains). Bring long slings if you want to toprope this climb.


Photos of Amazing Face Slideshow Add Photo
Hitonmi almost pitches off of the 'Amazing Face' (...
Hitonmi almost pitches off of the 'Amazing Face' (...
Paul, high up on Amazing Face.  The lighting and t...
Paul, high up on Amazing Face. The lighting and t...
A good closeup look at the sculptured face of Amaz...
A good closeup look at the sculptured face of Amaz...
First dyno on Amazing face. Taller people can jump...
First dyno on Amazing face. Taller people can jump...
climbing amazing face..
climbing amazing face..
Hitonmi leads 'Amazing Face' (5.10a) at Mt Diablo....
Hitonmi leads 'Amazing Face' (5.10a) at Mt Diablo....
A long pitch finally eases a bit at the top.
A long pitch finally eases a bit at the top.
Amazing face is to the right of the crack (that's ...
Amazing face is to the right of the crack (that's ...
leading the amazing face
leading the amazing face
Probably my tenth time doing this route. One I'll ...
Probably my tenth time doing this route. One I'll ...

Comments on Amazing Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2013
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 25, 2002

Getting in and out of the caves was fun. Try the variation of using no grips below the first cave. Tons of resting places on the way up the slabby face. Climbing pretty straighforward.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2002

I disagree with the quality rating. For the 5.9+/5.10a climber this climb is the best in its grade in the area for feeling up there and near veritical on a one pitch climb and with decent, but not juggy handholds. I still fondly look back several years ago when I first led it as a 'break through' climb. If thats your grade, you will love this climb! You can also scout your next break through on the 5.10c bolt route to the right
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 21, 2003

This is a very satisfying lead if you are pushing into 5.9 or 10a terrain.

Route should have at least 2 stars. It's the crag classic, and is a great 5.9+ lead.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 18, 2003

Amazing Face is a great climb! Had a buddy lead it as one of his first leads. He lead it clean. Following it I realized that for a beginner leader, the distance between the bolts and some of the body positions required to make one or two of the clips would make this quite exciting. No real hard moves but pretty continuous. Also, being quite used to Mickey's Beach rock, the sandstone takes quite a bit to get used to and certainly does not give you as solid a feel for the moves. Bolt Route to the right is more of the same great climbing, just a good solid number grade harder.
By Roger Platt
Sep 4, 2003

One of the best routes in the Bay Area. I have done it at least 15-20 times and I will never get tired of it. Highly recommended for beginning lead climbers if they are solid at the 5.9+ to 5.10 toprope level.
By Karl Royer
Oct 23, 2003

A must climb at the Diablo crag. Offers a couple of "scary" moves while leading. A very nice introduction route into sport climbing. I find most of the climbs here to require a LOT of balance, this route is a good warm up for the area.
By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wow some climbers around here are hard to please. Don't let the indifferent attitude of the person who created the page for this route deter you. "Amazing Face" is a beautiful route and a classic by Bay Area standards IMO. It reminds of one of the pitches on 'Birdland' in Red Rocks. A route well worth doing again and again.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Quality
By Peter Rakowitz
From: Portland, OR
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think this is a great route. Maybe the best of it's grade in east bay. By the way the bolt route next to amazing face is definitely not a 5.10b, at least not anymore.
By Gregory Mullen
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I've done it a few times, good, and fun, but not a classic.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jan 2, 2012

rope solo. I liked the route. Thanks to whomever keeps the Amazing Face "amazing".
By Joel Frederico
Feb 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I was thrilled with my first outdoor 5.10a lead onsight - actually my first 5.10a outdoor ever. (For gym climbers' reference - I climb at Planet Granite at an 11a/b level on TR, lead 10c.) The lead is terrific - long, flowy, balancy. Every move is a rest, so no chance of pump. But it can get cold at the bottom even though the high was in the upper 50's. Climbing into the sunshine was definitely rewarding.

Route info: Book recommends 10' of slings. I used 30' of cordellette, which including knots, got my anchor just below the rope scars. There are tons of holds everywhere, just find the ones you like and trust.

Beta: The crux is at the bottom, where it seems to have been worn smooth. I'm 6'4", so I kinda just went for the first move to the cave, not a problem. The psychological crux is getting out of the second cave, where you quickly become not very well protected for the 1.5 moves until you clip the second bolt. For seasoned leaders, not a big deal. For a gym rat like me, something to get through. The 3rd bolt is a bit of mental work, but nothing like before, and then you get into a rhythm and the bolts just sorta flow by. The end is a bit annoying - after great crimps and flakes (no jugs) and nice edges for your feet, the last 8 feet or so are more friction/mantle. Whatever. Top out and be happy!
By CP Phx
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb. Would definitely be hard for a newbie lead climber. Beta tip, just keep remembering that it's easier than it feels and the holds will show up as you go, trust me. Tricky clips in a couple of spots, especially if you are setting the clips as well. Pretty pumpy and exposed, can't ask for much more out of a hard 5.9/5.10a*!

  • might have been 5.9 back in 2002, but w/ the traffic it sees I think the sandstone holds have worn down quite a bit
By Tibo
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Best route on Diablo with good length. Definitely 5.9, not too steep, with stances between almost every move.