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 ADVANCED
Lower Sullivan's

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
911 T 
?Como Se Llama? T 
Apple Pie T 
Baby Please Dont Go T 
Better Than Mecca T 
Bohemian T 
Cellulose T 
Classic T 
Classified T 
Dancing Partner T 
Dirty Dog Ditty T 
Distant Vision T 
Easy Option T 
Finger Licking Good T 
Free Wheel T 
Freedom Falls T 
Gemstone T 
Jump Start T 
Left of Slipstream TR 
Mrs Whittaker T 
Neo-Classic T 
Potluck T 
Sharp End T 
Slipstream T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Tight Wad T 
Virtuoso T 
Wheeler Dealer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Sullivan's 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.86312, -112.44732 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,485
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...

Description 

This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)


Getting There 

About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.


Climbing Season


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',16],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Sharp End   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mrs Whittaker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   
Better Than Mecca   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 30'   
911   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Easy Option   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   
Apple Pie   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Distant Vision   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wheeler Dealer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Sword of Damocles   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bohemian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Sullivan's

Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Paul reaching for the first horizontal after the roof

Bohemian 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Sullivan's
Fun mixed route. Superb cranking if you can fight off the pump to reach the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Lower Sullivan's Slideshow Add Photo
lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the cliff
BETA PHOTO: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...
Anyone know the name of this one?  <br />Kait Boyle crushing.
Anyone know the name of this one?
Kait Boyle crus...
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