BETA PHOTO: found this recently digging through old guidebooks...
This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)
About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
51 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
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Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Dancing Partner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c AZ
: Central Arizona
: ... : Main Wall
Clip the high first bolt above the first moves over a choss pile. Splitter crack up to a bulge with a couple of funky moves before a ledge. Upper section of climb is fun, but has a lot of dirt. I wised I had my tooth brush with me to get all the silt off of my teeth at the bottom. Upper section with grit is no excuse to stay off of this great climb! Last move to clip the chains is a bit funky....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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BETA PHOTO: lol these are the old 'bolting guidelines' for the...
Anyone know the name of this one? Kait Boyle crus...