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 ADVANCED
Lower Solitude Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Nature S 
Bathtub Boulder Problem 
Blow S 
Brick Toss 
Climb It Change S 
Crocodile Tears  S 
Deer Cave, The 
Deferred Prosecution S 
Derelicte S 
Desparete Dancing S 
Egypt Air S 
Emerald Forest 
Emotional Rescue S 
Exfoliation S 
Flying Flesh S 
Free Radical S 
Hot Coffee  
Immodest Monkey S 
Little League Drop-Out S 
Modest Mouse S 
Nature Boy Rick Flare T,S 
Original Route, The S 
Pharside S 
Radical by Nature S 
Raven's Perch T 
Slackline 
Snake Run T 
Throwable Pipe Memorial S 
Twist Off S 
White Powdery Substance S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Solitude Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 35.23893, -111.62114 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,468
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin Cox on May 29, 2008
Forecast:
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Description 

The Lower Solitude Wall features mostly well-bolted, dacite sport routes with a few cracks and some scattered bouldering. This lower cliff band faces Northwest and can be seen from HWY 180 at Shultz Pass Rd. It's a beautiful, secluded, shady and wind protected area with a twenty-five minute approach. Conditions are best from late spring to late fall. Fall days are best for attempting the harder routes, but summer mornings are still good. The single pitch routes are vertical and technical, from 35 to 70 feet long, and all are equipped with anchors. Most routes are 5.11 or 5.12 and have a reputation for being harder than they really are, as the cruxes are bouldery, and the moves often depend on minuscule foot jibs.

The short, compact nature of routes like Modest Mouse(12c), Immodest Monkey(13a), and Derelicte(12b) may deter some climbers who favor the height and exposure of Higher Solitude, but what they lack in length is made up for in bomber rock that gets right to the point, much like the Energizer Wall at the Pit. These hard, short routes of Lower Solitude are comparable in length to the crux sections of Main Wall routes at Higher Solitude.

There are a couple good trad climbs also. Snake Run(12a), put up around 2000, is still unrepeated. Good boulder problems such as Slackline(v3+ slab), BTBP(v7), Brick Toss(stout v4), and Hot Coffee(v5) can be found along the base of the wall and scattered within the gully below and above.

Getting There 

Park at the end of Paradise Road, the same parking for Gloria's Rocks. Hike past Gloria's to the Northwest. Just west of the Bill Boulder, you'll find a trail that skirts the steep, rocky edge of the mountain. Avoid trails that fork left to the Oldham Trail. Stay on the trail that skirts the edge of the mountain until it curves northeastward up into the first gully or canyon. The cliff will soon appear on the north-facing side of the canyon. 25 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',9],['5.12',9],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Solitude Canyon:
Nature Boy Rick Flare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blow   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Modest Mouse   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Free Radical   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Radical by Nature   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Climb It Change   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Solitude Canyon

Featured Route For Lower Solitude Canyon
John Crawley moves through superb technical climbi...

Free Radical 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Lower Solitude Canyon
Free Radical shares the start of Pharside, then traverses left after the 2nd bolt and climbs an arc through the beautiful, colorful face, then finishes with an amazing crux at a thin black water streak. This is one of the best and most beautiful routes at Solitude. Lots of varied climbing on good rock and holds, with a four star crux guarding the chains. A good variation to Free Radical avoids the final crux by continuing the arc all the way back into the finishing arete of Pharside - Barracuda ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Lower Solitude Canyon
Photos of Lower Solitude Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Lower Solitude as seen from the trail to Higher So...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Solitude as seen from the trail to Higher So...
BK getting sandbagged by Colin at Solitude
BK getting sandbagged by Colin at Solitude
Improved topo of Lower Solitude Wall.
Improved topo of Lower Solitude Wall.
John on Free Radical. Rick Flare is to his left an...
John on Free Radical. Rick Flare is to his left an...

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