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 ADVANCED
Lower Small Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aptly Named 
Blue Biner T 
Caterpillar Crack T 
DAB Chimney T 
Der Kommissar T 
Dicey at Best T 
Good Tang T 
Hierarchy 
Lost Dart T 
Love Hurts 
Seven-Ten Split 
Spider Squat, The T 
Weasel, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Small Wall  


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Page Views: 2,656
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006
Forecast:
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Clear
67° | 48°
Clear
79° | 62°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 51°
Clear
58° | 38°
Clear
58° | 39°
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Description 

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Getting There 

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Bouldering 

The bouldering at Lower Small Wall is for the most part, removed fro mthe climbing area. The majority of the boulders are down near the road. There are a couple of decent problems near the route Eggshell as well.

To find the bouldering area, drive through the RRG on highway 715 from Nada Tunnel, past Gladie Visitor Center, Tower Rock and when you near the pull-offs for LSW you'll see two large, chossy boulders on the left side of the road. Just past the second one is two pull-offs on the right (river) side of the road. Park in the second one. Cross the road, climb the short bank and beeline into the woods. You should first encounter The Weasel Boulder. It's road side face is round-ish, slightly overhanging and flat gray.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Small Wall:
Good Tang   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Dicey at Best   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Blue Biner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Lower Small Wall

Featured Route For Lower Small Wall
The first pitch

Good Tang 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  KY : Red River Gorge : Lower Small Wall
From the ground, for the grade, this is a very intimidating route. If your leading limit is 5.7 then you may want to follow this one first.Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above. Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay. Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route ...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

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