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 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lower Slot and Upper Slot 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Sandbagger Types
Page Views: 3,789
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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BETA PHOTO: Lower to Upper Slot in context.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

And now, the final exam to Intro to Wide Cracks 101: after Easy Jam, Baldwin's Chimney, Right Parallel Space, Piton Perch, Slit, Handjacker, and Candlestick, it is now time to do one of the area classics of the grade, the Slots.

Beware of any climb at Vedauwoo named Slot (here are 2). These were (and still are) sandbags for the grade, but the confidence gained of experience will work in your favor. Body position, proper and rhythmical movement, foot and leg position, and confidence will all serve you well here.

From the parking lot, head left around the crag. Just left and around the corner from the Stand and Deliver Boulder are a series of overhanging wide cracks. Lower Slot takes...the lower one, and leads to a classic, leaning OW (Upper Slot). What else can I say at this point but: Go For IT.

Protection 

Big stuff.


Photos of Lower Slot and Upper Slot Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Sellers starting the lead.
Mark Sellers starting the lead.
Me nearing the crux on Lower Slot (Left Variation).  Photo by Taimi.
Me nearing the crux on Lower Slot (Left Variation)...
Mark Sellers loosing his hand in the crack. <br /> <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Mark Sellers loosing his hand in the crack.

Photo...
Mark Sellers climbing. <br /> <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Mark Sellers climbing.

Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Lower and Upper Slot are the right side OW crack systems. We were finishing lower slot and an unknown climber ascends the left crack system.
BETA PHOTO: Lower and Upper Slot are the right side OW crack s...
Unknown climber on Upper Slot.
Unknown climber on Upper Slot.
Not much feet on this one. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Not much feet on this one.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.

Comments on Lower Slot and Upper Slot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2001

Steve, this list is fantastic. I'll be hitting the whole course on my next trip to Vedauwoo. Thanks.
By Darin Lang
Aug 31, 2001

My thanks also, Steve. What more can you ask for than Cliff's Notes for OW 101? It almost feels like cheating.
By Michael Kullman
Oct 20, 2003

I guess I cheated on my final exam - instead of taking Lower Slot I did the variation (Lower Slot Left) which I thought was pretty cool. BTW - the Kopishka guide book lists both Lower and Upper Slot as 5.6. Regardless of the rating this is definitely a nice line.
By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was a sweet climb. Not to spray, but I don't think it was sandbagged at all. 5.6-5.7 (IF you have the technique dialed).

Only a short section of offwidth for my size body (mostly fist jams). There is a nice sidepull to the left to help you through the early offwidth section on the second pitch.

Once these are mastered, don't forget Middle Parrallel Space and Fantasia to bump it up a notch.
By TBD
Oct 20, 2003

My first climb at Vedauwoo was combining A little on the Ugly Side with Upper Slot. On upper slot, I did a variation on the face to the right of the crack to get past the crux. Why did I mention this, Petro is probably correct, but for someone inept at offwidths, 5.10 friction face climbing is apparently easier.
By Lizette Pena
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2006

Upper Slot - All I can say is heel toe, heel toe. And pray that you don't have a small foot like mine that your heel toe options will soon disappear as the slot widens. Watch those knees. Ouch...
By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Sep 5, 2008

Owwwch! Fun climb, I love knowing how much I suck.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

These were my favorite climbs from the 3 days (which was not nearly enough!) that we spent in Vedauwoo. The book we had listed Lower Slot at 5.8- and Upper Slot at 5.7+. The crux in the middle of the Lower Slot, which involved getting established in the crack after it jogs to the left, was certainly perplexing, and I'm still replaying the moves in my dreams :). The upper slot was sustained and fun, with great heel-toes. It felt easier than Mother #1 (Which I climbed on day 1), although by the time I climbed this one I'd been stuffing myself up fat cracks for 3 days and my technique may have improved a little.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 3, 2011

The second pitch can be done independently (the walk-off for Slit takes you right past the top of the Lower Slots, beginning of the upper slots) and is a pretty good 5.6 offwidth pitch in its own right. I still haven't found the 5.7 sequence for my body size on the first pitch though.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013

I stupidly got my brand new #5 jammed on this thing on its very first placement a couple weeks ago. If you manage to extract it, please please contact me. I will ply you with food/beer rewards! Really bummed.

That said, thought this was a nice offwidth lesson with a gorgeous top-out and rap off the backside. Just when the gruntiness seems serious, it backs off. It also seemed to accept a reasonable left-side-in approach given a few good outside feet on the right side face from the crack.